Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Jason Halladay, Ryan Kalas, Allison Fritz
Page Views: 225 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 17, 2018
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Scramble up the forth-class corner/chimney on the far left side of the cave to a small ledge and bolted belay anchor. Belay from here.
Climb up low angle rock with plenty of side pulls to a steep bulge in a small left-facing corner. Then climb the face to the arête out right with some blind reaches around the arête. Enjoy the cool position as you climb the arête to the anchor.
Possibly a decent warm-up for the area.

The wide crack on the left up high hasn't been cleaned and is best avoided in favor of the clean rock on the arête to the right.

Location

Furthest left route at the Solar Cave area. Scramble up the forth-class corner/chimney on the far left side of the cave to a small ledge and bolted belay anchor. Belay from here.

Protection

8 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. There's a bolted belay anchor on the small ledge. You can lower the climber all the way to ground level when done climbing. 

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10a
Don't really need to mess around with setting a belay at the top of the Cl 4. choss pillar. Works just fine to belay from the leftmost end of the Cave, especially if you use long runners on or backclean the anchor and first two bolts, which are not hard climbing. A 60m rope still reaches no problem, up and back to the left end of the Cave.
If you're looking for a climb less than 5.11 in the immediate area, this, or Sun Devil p1, are really your only options. Jun 13, 2018