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Routes in Solar Cave

Clovis Hunter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cro-Magnon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devilution S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Erectus (Open Project) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Evolution S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hominid S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hunter Gatherer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Intelligent Design S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mastodont S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meanderthal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Native Rituals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neolithic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quest for Fire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sapien S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solo Man (or Homo Erectus Soloensis) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Survival of the Fittest S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Voyage of the Beagle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: A. Miller, R. Bradshaw, C. Clark 03
Page Views: 2,378 total, 17/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 23, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start on broken rock that is harder than it looks, reach good holds and set up for the small roof and overhang. Original finish heads right with technical face climbing. A new alternate finish heads straight and pulls the next roof. Both finishes are supposed to be the same grade.

Edit: After some additional cleaning and holds breaking, this line is now considered 12b, perhaps even on the stiff side.

Location

Right side of cave, Starts to the right of Sapien, and to the left of 2 5.13's that share the same start.

Protection

Bolts to Chain Anchors
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.12b
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.12b
Really neat route with lots of variety and interesting movement. Seemed noticeably harder than Lucy or Cro Magnon, so I'm more inclined toward 5.12b. The direct finish through the upper roof is really wild and fun and I definitely recommend that over the anti-climactic original finish. As Lee said, the direct finish doesn't change the rating because its easier than the crux moves down lower, but it's pretty exciting nonetheless. Nov 24, 2011
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
Did this one again today, it does seem harder now that there is no rest immediately after the steep crux. I'm not sure the "cleaning" has made this route better but it is now more sustained and consistent through the first half, still the best route in the cave, 12b seems fair. Jan 14, 2010
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Adding to the refreshing excitement of this climb, the dihedral section directly following the first bulgy crux was cleaned (read...removed) on 4-5-09 to reveal a stunning section of slightly trickier face climbing and stemming. This makes the crux a bit more sustained and technical as well as cleaner and more aesthetic than it was (and it was pretty stellar to begin with) but no more than a letter grade difficult. Should justify the 12b rating and a proposed 5th star of quality.

Enjoy. Apr 6, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12a
Adding the finish of Native to this route does not make it any harder because of the no hands rest, though it does add another spot at which one could pitch especially if Clovis is hard for you in the first place. It is a more asthetic and direct finish to a great route. Aug 14, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
The bolt has been temporarily replaced and tested to be sound. We are currently researching why the bolt is missing and how. We may choose to move the bolt again to a less vertical (roof type) position as the hard Diablo basalt does not favor these vertical bolt placements due to the lack of rock deformation from the mechanical expansion pressures of the bolt itself. May 12, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12a
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12a
Perhaps the block it was bolted to fell off? May 2, 2008
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
As of May 1 the 4th bolt is missing on Clovis Hunter. This makes the route a definite ground fall if you fall off the crux. Hopefully it will get replaced soon as this is one of finest 12s in Diablo. I'm not sure how or why the bolt is gone. I'm not sure when I'll be back so hopefully one of the locals with a drill will fix the situation. May 2, 2008
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.12a
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.12a
This is my favorite of the routes I've done in the cave. I thought it was much better than Cro Magnet-man, but I tend to prefer less-steep routes. The rock is excellent through the steeps, with good (but not too good) rests and nice movement.

Beware that around the 3rd or 4th bolt there is a bolt to the right in no-mand's land between this route and Native Rituals that could easily lead you off route. Basically CH trends up and right, and then abruptly heads back left just at the moment this bolt comes into view, so its easy to be mislead. Apparently this bolt was intended for what surely would have been an awesome link-up involving 28 inches of new climbing.

I climbed the original finish. I've done the upper roof before as part of NR, and it seems from what I recall that adding this finish would make the route more difficult. You can get a no-hands rest just below the roof, but turning that upper roof is pretty hard. Do-able with a 50m rope. Apr 6, 2007