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Routes in Solar Cave

Clovis Hunter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cro-Magnon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Devilution S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Erectus (Open Project) S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Evolution S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hominid S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hunter Gatherer S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Intelligent Design S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lucy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mastodont S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meanderthal S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Native Rituals S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Natural Selection S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Neanderthal S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Neolithic S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Quest for Fire S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sapien S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Solo Man (or Homo Erectus Soloensis) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Survival of the Fittest S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Voyage of the Beagle S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff
Page Views: 2,399 total, 18/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This cryptic route begins up relatively mellow, blocky rock, before hitting the first crux at the 3rd & 4th bolt. Slopey pinches and awkward body positions lead to a rattly double crimp hold and a terrible shake. From here, clip up then head over the next bulge with strenuous moves on small but positive crimps and pockets. Above the bulge a decent shake leads to a few more sequential moves to a no-hands stance on Clovis Hunter. A few more trivial moves deliver you below the final upper roof, where an off-balance, pumpy, and somewhat terrifying lieback turns the lip to the anchor. Its best to hang a long draw over the lip here so you can clip before committing to the lieback.

Location

This route begins immediately right of Clovis Hunter in the Solar Cave. The route heads straight up the overhang, turns the lip, briefly joins Clovis Hunter, then continues straight up over a second roof, where Clovis Hunter heads right.

Protection

Bolts. The anchor has been re-equipped with steel hardware.
A.S..
  5.13a/b
A.S..  
  5.13a/b
Truly a great climb. I thought 13- was right on. I wish there were more like this one. Oct 12, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13a
Suits your style...as in not reachy? Jul 25, 2009
MattL
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
MattL   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
I added a couple of quicklinks to reduce rope twisting last year - man, that industrial grade lowering hook is awesome! I give it 13a because I've never been able to do 13b second try. Although, it does suit my style. Jul 25, 2009
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12c
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12c
Hardware in place as of 2014.
Generally, I don't like locking biners at the anchor because they seize up and become impossible to clip into. Apr 6, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13a
Well I usually stick the ugliest crapiest looking biners up there possible, I've got a great green locker with gold splatter anidization, truely hideous.

I guess I'll just bring out some quick links next time I'm out to put on the bolts and move the biners down.

The 5.13b grade is not going to keep anyone away since you can climb Clovis Hunter into the finish at the same Clovis grade, but you would still think that those folks would know what is up. Feb 25, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
No doubt. I've taken to spray painting the biners black (to make them look much less attractive as booty) ahead of time and even used bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chain which, obviously, isn't a real deterrent but at least says, "hey, these biners were left here on purpose for the safety and convenience of everyone."
Thanks for installing "fixed" biners, Lee. Feb 25, 2009
Damn Lee, I thought that was booty....

Just kidding.
You'd think bozo's would recognize "fixed" gear when they see it. Feb 25, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.13a
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.13a
It would be nice if people did not steal biners off of the anchors after you put them up there for lowering off, I'm sure I left 2 on each. Feb 25, 2009
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12c
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12c
Probably a letter grade or two easier than the other 13a routes on this wall. Really fun movement and good climbing. Dec 25, 2007