Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Walt Wehner, Josh Smith, 4/1999
Page Views: 3,637 total · 25/month
Shared By: Wa3lt on Nov 26, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

28 Opinions

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This route is great fun, but it can also be dangerous due to loose rock - wear a helmet and be careful! Days upon days of cleaning went into putting up this route, but there is still potential for rockfall, especially in the spring after the winter freeze/thaw cycle.

Pitch 1 climbs a chossy looking but reasonably good slabby face to a 2-bolt anchor. 120 feet, 5.9.
Pitch 2 is the technical crux, climbing up a bulge on thin holds (with a lot of exposure!). 5.11b, bolted throughout.
Pitch 3, in my opinion, is the real gem. It climbs an 80 foot pitch of perfect basalt with incredible exposure and fun moves. Also 11b, though I consider it easier than the second pitch.


Bring 15 quickdraws and a 200 foot rope. Helmets recommended.
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
The rock was surprisingly solid, I guess we were expecting the worst bc/ of all the warnings. After the crux bulge on p2, it appears the majority of climbers take a line just right of the bolt line. p3 was awesome, some delicate climbing around the arete. p3 is well worth it! Rap easily with 1 60m rope. Apr 9, 2007
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
When asked I tell people that this is my favorite climb at Diablo. Its a great way to warm up with an easy, thought provoking first pitch, and with the second and third pitches continuing on intricate, exposed and increasingly spectacular rock. If you're fast it can be done in an hour round trip. Please give Josh Smith credit for establishing the route with Walt and I. Nov 24, 2007
Albuquerque, NM
  5.11c PG13
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.11c PG13
This really is a must do at Diablo. If you climb at this level or above you will have a great time. The third pitch is one of the most amazing and technical 5.11's I've ever been on. The exposure when leading the 3rd pitch is surreal. Mar 17, 2008
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
This route kicks ass. Looks broken, but was surprisingly clean. P2 holds the crux, but it eases off after that. P3 was really great with fun movement and great exposure the entire way. Thanks to all involved in putting this one up! Sep 1, 2008
I think this is probably the coolest route Rick/Josh/Me ever put up. Well, me anyway. Rick and Josh are a bit more prolific, especially since they actually live near Diablo and still climb outside of the gym...unlike yours truly.

The rock was *really* bad when we started working on it, though. You have no idea. I think Ken or someone else has a big block that we thought was solid with a *bolt in it* that fell off the route when we were still cleaning! Jan 2, 2009
Dave Wachter  
4 stars for the third pitch!! Tricky onsight, with initially improbable-looking moves. Super aesthetic line, awesome exposure, and good rock quality.
3 stars for the second - some good climbing, including one great dynamic move to a huge jug (crux), but the pitch is relatively short and unsustained.
The first pitch is choss. Wear helmets (leader, belayer, and bystanders) and be very careful what you pull on. Jul 31, 2009
Wes Martin
Denver, CO
Wes Martin   Denver, CO
Why is this PG-13? Feb 8, 2017
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11b PG13
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11b PG13
Wes Martin wrote:Why is this PG-13?
I'm pretty sure the PG-13 rating is on account of the somewhat loose/chossy first pitch, not for any runouts between bolts. Since it's been nearly 20 years(!) since the FA, I'd expect the first pitch to be a lot cleaner and no longer warranting a PG-13 rating. That said, Diablo basalt seems to never fully clean up so a helmet and attention is still recommended. Feb 9, 2017
Wes Martin
Denver, CO
Wes Martin   Denver, CO
Thanks Jason. Climbed this yesterday with a party of 3, and I'd say PG-13 is no longer the case. However, there were certainly some loose blocks around, so as you said - helmet and caution advised. Top 2 pitches were awesome! Feb 12, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Pitch 1 is an ok 5.9, if you’re looking for an easier climb near the Solar Cave. If leading/lowering off P1, be very careful about rope length- my 60m worked but just barely!

To stay on Sun Devil on p2, from the belay immediately step right of the wide crack (Sun Devil Crack) and climb the bolted face on/just right of the arete. The obvious line straight above the belay is 7th Sun. (A couple of my friends were recently confused.) Jan 17, 2018