Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, 12/2000
Page Views: 5,966 total · 38/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

75 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Big muscles will power you over the technical cruxes through the roof section, but save something for the hairy, airy, and crimpy headwall. Splendid position, long route, cool moves.

To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the beginning of Post Moderate. Grape Ape is the bolted line just to the left of this route.


17 bolts to chain anchors.

Two ropes via rappel or a single 80m rope required for the descent.
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
Excellent climb. Crux going over roof. Watch out for thin top. If you get pumped on lower part the top will get your attention if grip is weak on crimpers. Oct 8, 2006
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
This route is awesome. Best 5.10 I've done at Diablo. For some reason the rock is several grades better than all the other routes in the canyon. Mar 5, 2007
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
Great route. I think it's more like 17 quickdraws plus the anchors... bring lots. Apr 10, 2007
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
Great climb. The quality of rock is some of the best in the canyon. The over abundance of chalk takes a bit away from the onsight experience. But what else can you expect from one of the best 5.10s in the state! Apr 16, 2007
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in
If you don't have a 2nd rope, you can get down from this climb with 1 rope by rappeling first to the anchor for Highly Caffienated then down from there; it involves some swinging (not too bad, but not straightforward).
This is one of the best 5.10 sport climbs around. Apr 21, 2008
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
George's story on the name is sort of close to the truth but significantly more entertaining so I won't spoil it. I think Ken Kisiel came up with the moniker after a brief encounter with the hairy gentleman when we were working on establishing the route. We changed the line a bit to accommodate his concern, which actually made the route a bit better. The name made us laugh so much we named it after him. Apr 22, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
Having just recently acquired an 80m rope, we now know one can lower off this route with a single 80m rope. I suspect the same is true for Blind Faith but we haven't tried it yet. Dec 4, 2012
Had the honor of climbing this with Rick Bradshaw. Such an awesome climb with great variety. Nice and longÂ…enjoy the rests where you get em:) Mar 21, 2014
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
Really good climb filled with satisfying holds. Though long, it has great rests before both the juggy roof and the crimpy headwall, and no move harder than 5.10a. Because of this, I have a hard time calling this 10c. If you milk the rests for all they are worth, I don't feel that endurance needs to be a factor either (Unless you rush through them). Regardless, a really enjoyable climb. Dec 3, 2017
Michael Parker
Bozeman, MT
Michael Parker   Bozeman, MT
Spectacular route. My partner lead it and I followed. I lowered him from the top then did 2 raps to get back down, stopping at the mid route anchors on the neighboring route, Post Moderate. Apr 2, 2018
Just right of the top is a microwave-size block, balanced on the edge. When it goes, some smaller rocks will go with it. Someone should trundle it soon, when no one is below. Apr 20, 2018
Dylan Boyle
Los Alamos, NM
Dylan Boyle   Los Alamos, NM
Super fun route!! Crux was not getting pumped on the thin stuff after the roofs. Excellent rock quality. Definitely need an 80m to lower. Dec 9, 2018