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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Rick Bradshaw, Ken Kisiel, 12/2000
Page Views: 5,061 total, 35/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


56 Opinions

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Description

Big muscles will power you over the technical cruxes through the roof section, but save something for the hairy, airy, and crimpy headwall. Splendid position, long route, cool moves.

To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the beginning of Post Moderate. Grape Ape is the bolted line just to the left of this route.

Protection

17 bolts to chain anchors.
Two 50m ropes or a single 80m rope required for the descent.
Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10a
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10a
Really good climb filled with satisfying holds. Though long, it has great rests before both the juggy roof and the crimpy headwall, and no move harder than 5.10a. Because of this, I have a hard time calling this 10c. If you milk the rests for all they are worth, I don't feel that endurance needs to be a factor either (Unless you rush through them). Regardless, a really enjoyable climb. Dec 3, 2017
TLob
 
TLob  
 
Had the honor of climbing this with Rick Bradshaw. Such an awesome climb with great variety. Nice and longÂ…enjoy the rests where you get em:) Mar 21, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
Having just recently acquired an 80m rope, we now know one can lower off this route with a single 80m rope. I suspect the same is true for Blind Faith but we haven't tried it yet. Dec 4, 2012
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
 
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
 
George's story on the name is sort of close to the truth but significantly more entertaining so I won't spoil it. I think Ken Kisiel came up with the moniker after a brief encounter with the hairy gentleman when we were working on establishing the route. We changed the line a bit to accommodate his concern, which actually made the route a bit better. The name made us laugh so much we named it after him. Apr 22, 2008
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10c
The name Grape Ape reportedly originated from a hairy belligerent purple-fleece-wearing Santa Fean who was working on a nearby trad route at the time of the FA, and wasn't too psyched about the LA crew drilling a 17-bolt sport route right next to it. You can see the purple fleece on the ground in
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If you don't have a 2nd rope, you can get down from this climb with 1 rope by rappeling first to the anchor for Highly Caffienated then down from there; it involves some swinging (not too bad, but not straightforward).
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This is one of the best 5.10 sport climbs around. Apr 21, 2008
Chuck McQuade
Golden, CO
 
Chuck McQuade   Golden, CO
 
Great climb. The quality of rock is some of the best in the canyon. The over abundance of chalk takes a bit away from the onsight experience. But what else can you expect from one of the best 5.10s in the state! Apr 16, 2007
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.10c
Great route. I think it's more like 17 quickdraws plus the anchors... bring lots. Apr 10, 2007
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
  5.10c
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
  5.10c
This route is awesome. Best 5.10 I've done at Diablo. For some reason the rock is several grades better than all the other routes in the canyon. Mar 5, 2007
Larry Earley
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Larry Earley   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Excellent climb. Crux going over roof. Watch out for thin top. If you get pumped on lower part the top will get your attention if grip is weak on crimpers. Oct 8, 2006