Type: Sport, 104 ft
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,653 total · 11/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

Roid Boys has really easy climbing interrupted by 3 short steep sections moving through blocky overhangs. Finding the good exit holds and having enough core and upper body strength to pull through these cruxes is key. The 2nd roof is probably the crux, you move from left to right.

This climb has an unusual character for an easier Diablo sport climb, with short powerful cruxes and almost none of the endurance factor that characterizes other Diablo moderates.

I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.

Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it may just barely reach or might come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)

Location

Right side of Winter Wall, the 4th sport climb from the right.
Route 10 in beta photo.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos