Type: Sport, 104 ft
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,304 total · 10/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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17 Opinions

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Roid Boys has really easy climbing interrupted by 3 short steep sections moving through blocky overhangs. Finding the good exit holds and having enough core and upper body strength to pull through these cruxes is key. The 2nd roof is probably the crux, you move from left to right.

This climb has an unusual character for an easier Diablo sport climb, with short powerful cruxes and almost none of the endurance factor that characterizes other Diablo moderates.

I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.

Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it may just barely reach or might come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)


Right side of Winter Wall, the 3rd sport climb from the right.
Route 10 in beta photo.
Bradshaw's online guide photo may help.


8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map. Dec 4, 2007
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. Mar 8, 2008
Karl R. Kiser
Karl R. Kiser  
Tom Wezwick and I climbed the crack to the right and put the anchor in (previously climbed because old sling found in crack). Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper bolts so they could be used by both routes (rock at the top of the crack less than good). Apr 1, 2008
Heidi Riley
Santa Fe, NM
Heidi Riley   Santa Fe, NM
1) a 60 meter rope is fine for rapping this route - it wasn't short for us.
2) feet don't have to come off the wall. Jan 3, 2015
  5.10a PG13
  5.10a PG13
While I can appreciate that bolt placements are hard to place effectively on a route with alternating slabs and roofs, most clips still have the danger of falling onto the slab, the rope running over sharp edges, and 20' run outs. So, one would want to very solid at the grade to lead this. You really wouldn't want to fall on any section. Mar 3, 2016
Sara Weeces
Top rope, lots of drag in a crack several bolts up; when not in that crack it would get stuck on a harder, sharper edge to the left. Recommend leading, not top roping this climb unless you do some of the moves with a ton of slack... there are many other climbs on this wall in that grade if you can't lead it. Feb 28, 2017
Adrian Landreth
Ann Arbor, MI
Adrian Landreth   Ann Arbor, MI
@Sara Weeces: We were able to remove the rope drag issue from this for TR by placing the belayer ~30 ft to the right of the bush and tree directly below the first bolt. There a crack like feature that provide an obstructed path for the belay strand which significantly reduced the drag in the system. Sep 22, 2018
Albuquerque, NM
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
Generally a bit run out for a sport climb and sometimes a bit hard to spot your next bolt. However the climbing is good. Nov 25, 2018