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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 104 ft
FA: Mark Thomas
Page Views: 1,200 total · 9/month
Shared By: George Perkins on Oct 23, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description [Edit]

Roid Boys has really easy climbing interrupted by 3 short steep sections moving through blocky overhangs. Finding the good exit holds and having enough core and upper body strength to pull through these cruxes is key. The 2nd roof is probably the crux, you move from left to right.

This climb has an unusual character for an easier Diablo sport climb, with short powerful cruxes and almost none of the endurance factor that characterizes other Diablo moderates.

I think the FA deserves good credit for intelligent bolt placements on this route. With these short boulder problem cruxes, falls onto ledges or slabs would've been possible, but the bolts are in perfect locations, so this is not an issue.

Rap the route with one 60m rope (and PAY ATTENTION TO THE END OF IT- it may just barely reach or might come up just a couple meters short of the ground, depending on rope stretch; DON'T GET DROPPED!)

Location [Edit]

Right side of Winter Wall, the 3rd sport climb from the right.
Route 10 in beta photo.
Bradshaw's online guide photo may help.

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10a
In D. Jackson's book, Rock Climbing New Mexico, topo shows route #3 and calls it Roid Boys; this is not correct, #3 is Vitaman; Roid Boys is not shown on the topo map. Dec 4, 2007
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. Mar 8, 2008
Karl R. Kiser
  5.10a
Karl R. Kiser  
  5.10a
Tom Wezwick and I climbed the crack to the right and put the anchor in (previously climbed because old sling found in crack). Mark Thomas then put up Roid Boys and placed the upper bolts so they could be used by both routes (rock at the top of the crack less than good). Apr 1, 2008
Heidi Riley
Santa Fe, NM
Heidi Riley   Santa Fe, NM
1) a 60 meter rope is fine for rapping this route - it wasn't short for us.
2) feet don't have to come off the wall. Jan 3, 2015
djkyote
  5.10a PG13
djkyote  
  5.10a PG13
While I can appreciate that bolt placements are hard to place effectively on a route with alternating slabs and roofs, most clips still have the danger of falling onto the slab, the rope running over sharp edges, and 20' run outs. So, one would want to very solid at the grade to lead this. You really wouldn't want to fall on any section. Mar 3, 2016
Sara Weeces
I LIKE TO MOVE IT MOVE IT
Sara Weeces   I LIKE TO MOVE IT MOVE IT
Top rope, lots of drag in a crack several bolts up; when not in that crack it would get stuck on a harder, sharper edge to the left. Recommend leading, not top roping this climb unless you do some of the moves with a ton of slack... there are many other climbs on this wall in that grade if you can't lead it. Feb 28, 2017

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