Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Mark Thomas, with Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler. Fall 1999.
Page Views: 3,843 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 2, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.

Location Suggest change

This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route. It's climb number 9 in the Winter Wall beta photo.

Protection Suggest change

16 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (not 13 as stated in one of the guides)
Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.

Bring a second rope for the descent. If you only have one rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though, and there are loose rocks you could kick off), and then down from there. Two ropes are better. Or a single 80m rope. A single 70m rope with stretch reportedly works but definitely tie knots in the ends.

Photos

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