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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Mark Thomas, with Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler
Page Views: 1,470 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.

Location

This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route. It's climb number 9 in the Winter Wall beta photo.

Protection

16 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (not 13 as stated in one of the guides)
Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.

Bring a second rope for the descent. If you only have one rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though, and there are loose rocks you could kick off), and then down from there. Two ropes are better. Or a single 80m rope. A single 70m rope with stretch reportedly works but definitely tie knots in the ends.

Photos

Robin
Albuquerque, NM
 
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
 
We were also able to lower to the ground with a 70m rope. It was close so clearly we had a knot in the rope end. Oct 16, 2015
skelldify
  5.11b
skelldify  
  5.11b
We were able to lower back to the ground with stretch using a 70m rope. Helmet recommended, there is some loose stuff, mostly on the first 1/4 of the route. The only good way to clean this route is by following it. A couple of the bolts were placed on the lip of a roof, causing a biner to be cross-loaded unless longer slings were used. Nov 17, 2014
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
An interesting route. Seemed fairly clean to me, most of the climbing felt moderate 5.10. The straight up exit at the end is probably about 10+ but with some rope drag pulling on you with feet on slaby edges its probably a letter grade harder (11a). Don't try to clean this on rappel - probably much smarted to have a second follow it and clean (I wish I was smart). A Nice LONG, OVERHANGING, & Diagonal line with mostly very positive holds. Nov 28, 2011
JimmyK
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
JimmyK   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.11a
I thought the crux was not at the top, but at the middle, about 75 feet up, going up and left at a roof instead of right. Nice route. Feb 22, 2009
Karl Kiser
  5.11a
Karl Kiser  
  5.11a
FA done by Mark Thomas with help from others in the cleaning. Apr 1, 2008
Rick Bradshaw
Los Alamos, NM
Rick Bradshaw   Los Alamos, NM
This route was established by some combination of Mark Thomas, Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler, all of whom worked together on several routes at Diablo and in particular on the Winter Wall. Mar 8, 2008
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.11a
Once again, I am sorry for moving bolts on a sport route but with the high frequency of rockfall on this wall its better to be safe than sorry.

Fun route, by the way (to whomever put this line up) Dec 25, 2007