Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Mark Thomas, with Tom Wezwick, Karl Kiser, and Chris Kessler. Fall 1999.
Page Views: 1,954 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 2, 2007 with improvements by Karl R. Kiser
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

A sustained, lengthy route tackling a series of roofs to a final exposed crux move from a face over one last roof. Mostly 5.10+ until the last moves. Final hard move can be avoided by going right at the last bolt.

Location

This is the bolted face/arete with a number of roofs just to the right of Original Face Route. It's climb number 9 in the Winter Wall beta photo.

Protection

16 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor (not 13 as stated in one of the guides)
Long draws on the bolts under the roofs are nice to minimize rope drag but aren't required.

Bring a second rope for the descent. If you only have one rope, you could get down by rapping first to the Original Face Route anchors (annoying to do, though, and there are loose rocks you could kick off), and then down from there. Two ropes are better. Or a single 80m rope. A single 70m rope with stretch reportedly works but definitely tie knots in the ends.

Photos