Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Sharon Dogruel and Greg Swift
Page Views: 701 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Dec 7, 2008
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Old Sling Straightened is mixed gear and bolts route established by Sharon and Greg a couple years ago on the right side of the Winter Wall. Story has it they were looking for a line they could climb over and over for years to come and liked the lower part of a route they believed to be Old Sling because they found an old sling in one of the cracks. But the upper parts were horribly loose and sketchy.
With that in mind they looked to the left and found some clean, short dihedrals leading to a clean panel of rock to finish up on. The dihedrals and final panel didn't protect well so they hand drilled four protection bolts on the upper part of the wall.

Start as for Protein Supplement following a left-angling seam on easy terrain towards a big, black roof using gear for pro. Pull the roof and cruise the low angle gully to another small, wide crack roof. Head for two, short, bolt-protected dihedrals above followed by an all-too-short finger crack section up to the final, steep headwall. To this point the climbing is fun and moderate. Clip two bolts on the final headwall, the 5.10 crux, up to the top. A single anchor bolt will be found at the top.

Location

The route is at the far right side of the Winter Wall sharing a start with Protein Supplement. It's a full 60m. You can break the route into two pitches with a belay below the two, short dihedrals to minimize rope drag/weight.

Protection

Single rack of BD .3 to #3 cams. Wires could be useful but not necessary. 4 protection bolts along the way and a single anchor bolt at the top along with a big rock to sling serve as the anchor. Walk off to the north and swing back down to your packs and tasty peanut butter and honey sandwich.

Photos

Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.10-
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.10-
Fun route. Definitely worth doing if you've done the classics on the Winter Wall and are looking for something new.

I did it in two pitches, setting the first belay just below the first bolt. I used that bolt to back up my anchor (which seemed solid, but better safe than sorry on the Winter Wall).

The crux is well protected by tightly spaced bolts, but is pretty tricky. All the holds seemed to face the wrong way! Mar 31, 2010
The Old Sling Name was first used (something for the guidebook published electronically by Bradshaw) for the short flake crack to the right of the bolted Roid Boys. The Old Sling Straightened is a separate climb uphill from the named route. Mar 6, 2009
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
Mystery solved! Good job Jason. Last time I was over there, I scoped out just the line that you described, thinking it was the best way to get to those high bolts. But it wasn't something I was gonna try myself.... (having not yet quite recovered from my exploration of the adjacent bogus choss route called "The Trough", which may be the same as the "horribly loose and sketchy" stuff you mentioned)....

I think I have an unannotated version of the image, if you want to retrace the line on something that doesn't have all my goofy writing on it. Let me know if you want it. (and also, my yellow bolt X's are most certainly not accurately placed) Dec 8, 2008