Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz. February 2011.
Page Views: 2,475 total · 22/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2011
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: COVID-19 New Mexico State Requirements Details

Description

This route climbs the face left of the gear/bolts route Basalt Therapy finishing up a nice arête and face climbing with great position on quality stone. It's the first route you'll encounter as you head up the old, western approach trail to the Winter Wall proper.
It can be done in one long pitch (recommended!) or two shorter pitches. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.

It's common for parties to climb just the first pitch but you're really missing out on the best climbing of this route if you don't climb the second pitch.

Pitch 1 - 5.9 (105'): Start up just below a large block and make leftward moves to the first bolt. Loose fourth class action gets you by a couple more bolts well to the left of Basalt Therapy to preserve that route's integrity to the roof (but resulting in bad rope drag later). Turn the roof on its left side into some dubious but easy climbing to the next bolt.

Continue up the face and shallow dihedral through a tightly bolted section (due to rock quality) to eventually work leftwards to the arête and better rock. Strongly consider back cleaning the draw from the bolt closest to the "crack" to reduce rope drag. Continue up trending left to the cool, airy belay on faint ledge on the arete.

Pitch 2 - 5.10+ (85'): The reason to climb this route is this pitch. Continue up the fun and airy arête beyond the first anchors on increasingly better rock through some tricky sections and up to the nice-but-small belay ledge just below a roof. Metolius rap hangers will set you up for the rappel back down.

Location

This is the left-most route on the Winter Wall proper. The start is just below the large block with the "X" chalk mark on it. There's a decent man-made belay platform at the base.

Protection

13-14 quick draws if climbing in two pitches. 22 or 23 quick draws if doing it in one long pitch. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.

Bolts/carabiners atop P1. Metolious rap hangers atop P2.

DESCENT OPTIONS:
  1. Rap the route in two rappels with a single 70m rope. (A 60m rope reportedly works, with stretch, on the P1 rappel, tie knots in the end of your rope.)
  2. Rap the route in one rappel with two 70m ropes. 
  3. With 80m rope, climb route in one long pitch and lower from the P2 anchors to the P1 anchors. Anchor in P1 anchors, pull rope through P2 anchors, tie back in and lower to the ground. 

Photos