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Routes in Winter Wall

Basalt Therapy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Blind Faith S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Clean Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gopher Broke S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grape Ape S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hellboy S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Highly Caffenated T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Highway to Hell T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Naked Lunch S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Old Sling T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Old Sling Straightened T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Original Face Route S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pale Face S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Post Moderate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Protein Supplement S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Roid Boys S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sunbaked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trough, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vitaman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Xibalba S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz. February 2011.
Page Views: 1,816 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2011
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the face left of the gear/bolts route Basalt Therapy finishing up a nice arête and face climbing with great position on quality stone. It's the first route you'll encounter as you head up the old, western approach trail to the Winter Wall proper.
It can be done in one long pitch (recommended!) or two shorter pitches. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.

It's common for parties to climb just the first pitch but you're really missing out on the best climbing of this route if you don't climb the second pitch.

Pitch 1 - 5.9 (105'): Start up just below a large block and make leftward moves to the first bolt. Loose fourth class action gets you by a couple more bolts well to the left of Basalt Therapy to preserve that route's integrity to the roof (but resulting in bad rope drag later). Turn the roof on its left side into some dubious but easy climbing to the next bolt.

Continue up the face and shallow dihedral through a tightly bolted section (due to rock quality) to eventually work leftwards to the arête and better rock. Strongly consider back cleaning the draw from the bolt closest to the "crack" to reduce rope drag. Continue up trending left to the cool, airy belay on faint ledge on the arete.

Pitch 2 - 5.10+ (85'): The reason to climb this route is this pitch. Continue up the fun and airy arête beyond the first anchors on increasingly better rock through some tricky sections and up to the nice-but-small belay ledge just below a roof. Metolius rap hangers will set you up for the rappel back down.

Location

This is the left-most route on the Winter Wall proper. The start is just below the large block with the "X" chalk mark on it. There's a decent man-made belay platform at the base.

Protection

13-14 quick draws if climbing in two pitches. 22 or 23 quick draws if doing it in one long pitch. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.

Bolts/carabiners atop P1. Metolious rap hangers atop P2. Rap the route in two rappels with a single 70m rope. 60m rope reportedly works, with stretch, on the P1 rappel, tie knots in the end of your rope.
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
Today we cleaned the route a bit more, added a bolt on pitch 1 and added a belay bolts at about 105' up on a small ledge on the arete. The route can now be done in two pitches with a single 70m rope, possibly a single 60m with stretch on the P1 rappel. Mar 27, 2011
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10d
This was an exceptional route!!
It seems to have cleaned up pretty good. Not quite as clean as Grape Ape but at least as clean as Naked Lunch if not better(if more people get on this it could become another Grape Ape with time). Went over to Sun Devil after this and I liked this much better overal (not as long but better rock for the whole route and still somewhat airy)
I don't think any moves on the route seemed any harder than 10+ but it all just felt 5.11ish up the steep part for quite a ways. I like the 5.11- rating. Definitly 3 1/2 stars for now (I gave it 4 starts to pull the rating up) The only funky rock was the 5.10ish moves as the wall steepens before the mid-station - The rock was probably good but the moves seemed odd to me. Easy bottom stuff was clean enough.
We decided to do this as a 2 pitch route just for the fun of it. If you do it as that: P1 was minimal 5.10 or 5.9+ - P2 seemed 5.10-10+ climbing the whole way. We dragged an extra rope and did just one rappel.
If you do Grape Ape you should get on this one too - Not PG13 anymore- DO IT!!

GREAT JOB JASON!! Oct 15, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
I'm stoked you enjoyed the route, Rich, and thanks for the kind words. After the investment in time to clean the line, I'm happy to hear it's seeing some traffic. We're heading into Diablo season now and I'm looking forward to getting back on this line and the other new additions to the area this year.

I climbed it again today and, like others that have opined about it, I feel it's 10+. I changed the rating here on MP. Oct 16, 2011
Agreed that P1 is 5.10a or easier. Extremely good bolting job on P1, closely spaced where needed to protect crux moves. Feb 23, 2013
Climbed Xibalba as one long pitch this Sunday. Fantastic route, particularly the upper headwall where the rock quality improved significantly. Used some long slings on the lower bolts, back cleaned a couple of draws, and didn't have any problem with rope drag. 5.10d seams reasonable, maybe 10a to the lower anchors. Happy to find a rest near the end of the crux section. Thanks for all the work putting this route up. Oct 14, 2013
nealg  
Superb 5.10 face climbing, especially top half. Definitely should be done as one long 22 clip route.

Nice work to the FA. Oct 21, 2014
Joe Kapala
Santa Fe, NM
 
Joe Kapala   Santa Fe, NM
 
Best route in the winter wall by far. Great movement, awesome exposure.

Make sure your extend the lower bolts with slings/runners or the rope drag will be very frustrating. Jun 12, 2018

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