Avg: 2.9 from 13 votes
|Type:||Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz. February 2011.|
|Page Views:||1,656 total · 20/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis route climbs the face left of the gear/bolts route Basalt Therapy finishing up a nice arête with great position. Its the first route youll encounter as you head up the approach trail to the winter wall proper.
It can be done in one long pitch or two shorter pitches. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots to reduce rope drag up high.
Pitch 1 - 5.9 (105'): Start up just below a large block with half a chalked X on it (I worked on this block for a long time with a crow bar and while it wiggled, it wouldnt come out) and make leftward moves to the first bolt. Loose fourth class action gets you by a couple more bolts well to the left of Basalt Therapy to preserve that routes integrity to the roof (but resulting in bad rope drag later). Turn the roof on its left side into some dubious but easy climbing to the next bolt.
Continue up the face and shallow dihedral through a tightly bolted section (due to rock quality) to eventually work leftwards to the arête and better rock. Strongly consider back cleaning the draw from the bolt closest to the "crack" to reduce rope drag. Continue up trending left to the cool, airy belay on faint ledge on the arete.
Pitch 2 - 5.10+ (85'): The reason to climb this route is this pitch. Continue up the fun and airy arête on increasingly better rock through some tricky sections and up to the nice-but-small belay ledge just below a roof. Metolius rap hangers will set you up for the rappel back down.
Note: We spent many hours the on a couple of weekends cleaning the route. It still has some loose surface rocks on it but the big killers have been removed (some even bounced all the way down into the sandy wash!) Expect some loose rock and a mountaineering feel to the route until it cleans up a little more as it sees some more traffic. We are continually impressed how much cleaning is necessary on this wall. That said, it's a safe lead now in its current state (I was just damn tired of the sketchy and scary rap in from the mesa top to the anchors).
LocationThis is the left-most route on the Winter Wall proper. The start is just below the large block with the "X" chalk mark on it. There's a decent man-made belay platform at the base.
Protection13-14 quick draws if climbing in two pitches. 22 or 23 quick draws if doing it in one long pitch. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.
Bolts/carabiners atop P1. Metolious rap hangers atop P2. Rap the route in two rappels with a single 70m rope. 60m rope reportedly works, with stretch, on the P1 rappel, tie knots in the end of your rope.