Avg: 3 from 21 votes
|Type:||Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jason Halladay, Allison Fritz. February 2011.|
|Page Views:||2,475 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Mar 1, 2011|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
It can be done in one long pitch (recommended!) or two shorter pitches. If done in one long pitch, bring ~22 draws and back clean a few in critical spots on the first pitch to reduce rope drag up high.
It's common for parties to climb just the first pitch but you're really missing out on the best climbing of this route if you don't climb the second pitch.
Pitch 1 - 5.9 (105'): Start up just below a large block and make leftward moves to the first bolt. Loose fourth class action gets you by a couple more bolts well to the left of Basalt Therapy to preserve that route's integrity to the roof (but resulting in bad rope drag later). Turn the roof on its left side into some dubious but easy climbing to the next bolt.
Continue up the face and shallow dihedral through a tightly bolted section (due to rock quality) to eventually work leftwards to the arête and better rock. Strongly consider back cleaning the draw from the bolt closest to the "crack" to reduce rope drag. Continue up trending left to the cool, airy belay on faint ledge on the arete.
Pitch 2 - 5.10+ (85'): The reason to climb this route is this pitch. Continue up the fun and airy arête beyond the first anchors on increasingly better rock through some tricky sections and up to the nice-but-small belay ledge just below a roof. Metolius rap hangers will set you up for the rappel back down.
Bolts/carabiners atop P1. Metolious rap hangers atop P2.
- Rap the route in two rappels with a single 70m rope. (A 60m rope reportedly works, with stretch, on the P1 rappel, tie knots in the end of your rope.)
- Rap the route in one rappel with two 70m ropes.
- With 80m rope, climb route in one long pitch and lower from the P2 anchors to the P1 anchors. Anchor in P1 anchors, pull rope through P2 anchors, tie back in and lower to the ground.