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Winter Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Basalt Therapy T 
Blind Faith S 
Gopher Broke S 
Grape Ape S 
Hellboy S 
Highly Caffenated T 
Highway to Hell T 
Naked Lunch S 
Old Sling T 
Old Sling Straightened T 
Original Face Route T 
Pale Face S 
Post Moderate S 
Protein Supplement S 
Roid Boys S 
SOL Man (aka Not In the End) S 
Sunbaked S 
Trough, The T 
Vitaman T 
Xibalba S 

Winter Wall Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.80566, -106.14024 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 36,410
Administrators: DisturbingThePeace, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 13, 2006
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Sun Devil/ Winter Wall Routes. Complement...


Sunny area to climb during the winter months. Be careful on many of the routes on this wall, despite some absolute gems, many of the routes look and can be a little chossy. However, there are some classic lines here.

Getting There 

See map photo at front. Hard to miss as it is directly in front as you as you enter the parking area!

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Winter Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Winter Wall:
Hellboy   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Post Moderate   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Roid Boys   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 104'   
Highly Caffenated   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Old Sling Straightened   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Protein Supplement   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Naked Lunch   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Sunbaked   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Grape Ape   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 150'   
Gopher Broke   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
SOL Man (aka Not In the End)   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
Xibalba   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Blind Faith   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 150'   
Pale Face   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Winter Wall

Featured Route For Winter Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Tina on the upper section of "Grape Ape."...

Grape Ape 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  NM : Santa Fe Area : ... : Winter Wall
Big muscles will power you over the technical cruxes through the roof section, but save something for the hairy, airy, and crimpy headwall. Splendid position, long route, cool moves. To find this route, look for the trail that goes along the base of the cliff and follow it until you find a wooden post at the beginning of Post Moderate. Grape Ape is the bolted line just to the left of this route....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of Winter Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: More detailed picture of Grape Ape (#4), and Post ...
BETA PHOTO: More detailed picture of Grape Ape (#4), and Post ...

Comments on Winter Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl Kiser
Apr 1, 2008
There were three routes (and one started) on this wall when Tom Wezwick and I came to the wall during the later 90s. The Original Face Route existed, there was a sling in the crack we called Old Sling, the crack now called Highway to Hell and the start of an arete to the right of Highway (about three bolts up).
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009
If you do happen to establish new lines on this wall, cool. But please clean as much as possible before you actually install bolts and call it done. Be patient with it and do a good and thorough job. Don't just assume that it will clean up with the climbing of others on lead. This puts not only the climber, but the belayer in real danger. I have always believed that the helmet was a mandatory piece of gear at Diablo, especially the Winter Wall. Nuff' said.
By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009
I don't remember a sling on Highway To Hell when we did it. You must be thinking of a different line. I know there was a sling on the offwidth left of Sun Devil. And the arete to the right had four bolts on it with a biner on the last one. That section was 5.7. I don't know who pt those in.
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 8, 2009
Great point, Scott. As one that has recently established a new line on the winter wall and spent a great deal of time cleaning it, I know this to be true. Even after quite a bit of time cleaning it, I still heard a lot of people complaining about loose rock.

A winter or two ago a large chunk of rock pulled loose on a leader on the very popular Post Moderate route resulting in a couple of broken ankles for the leader. This goes to show just how bad the rock can get due to its location and aspect (and relatively poor quality to begin with.)

In addition to new routers cleaning the routes as they put them in, I believe all climbers that climb on this wall should not just always wear a helmet but adopt a new attitude about climbing...the rock is dubious...tread lightly, lower expectations and bitch less about the route developers cleaning job. The rock is constantly "evolving".
By Karl Kiser
Mar 6, 2009
Highway to Hell had slings on the anchor bolts. We replaced these with chain later. The Old Sling Route uphill was named for a single sling in the crack. We wanted Bradshaw's guide to name the trad route right of Roid Boys.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Jan 5, 2011
To whomever is stashing their tarp near the Winter Wall:

Please consider NOT stashing your tarp in the bushes below the wall. While I understand that Diablo is dusty and tarps are nice (I have used them in the past), stashing them in the bushes is problematic for a number of reasons.

1) It makes the place look trashy. I know that the NM climbing community is relatively small, but if everyone stashed a tarp, the place would look like crap....and no, just because the locals occasionally dump a sofa in the desert doesn't mean that we shouldn't treat the place better than they do.

2) Rodents can and will chew apart your tarp and leave litter EVERYWHERE. This is what happened to your tarp. Huge chunks of it were spread virtually all over the base of the crag making an absolute mess. I picked up what I could and hauled it out to the trash.

In the future, I won't wait for the rodents to destroy tarps; I will simply be taking any tarps I find at the crag with me when I leave. If anyone posts up that they are missing their tarp, I would then be happy to return it to them.


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