Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Strang & Mike Phalan
Page Views: 3,571 total · 32/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Mar 16, 2012
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Finished to the Top.
P1*** - Climb just right of the original Suntoucher, on steep rock with big holds that looks loose but is quite solid (Heat Seeker is the most right line with gray hangers). Climbing is mostly 5.8 with a harder 5.9ish move midway, move to the Suntoucher belay on the left at about 60 feet- 6 blots to anchors
P2*** - Move back right to clip the bolts below the roof arete. Climb the "bouldery" V2ish roof section past the first 3 bolts (climbing is mostly just left of the bolts). Exit onto the upper ramp where Suntoucher climbs straight up. From here diagonal up and right on pretty clean moderate rock to the 2nd crack and climb up to "Cactus Ledge" - Awesome belay stance!! (5.10+/11a over the roof) 60 feet - 8 bolts to anchors, can be combined with P1.
P3**** - Stem/chimney up along the pillar and move left at the 3rd bolt. Climb the right side of the roof up killer rock and diagonal left towards the arete. Make a final hardish move to the hanging stance at about 85 feet (5.10 c/d) - 10 bolts to anchors
P4**** - Head up and left from the belay, most people will probably climb into the corner. This section has weird looking rock that looks loose but we cleaned it all good - trust it. Continue up the corner (stepping right to the arete breifly is OK, we cleaned that good too) At the top of the corner, chug out left onto the headwall with some wild overhanging & squencey moves up onto a small ledge and then the top. 70 feet (5.10+) - 9 bolts to anchors (I left an intemediate bolt at the crux for people that can't clip the crux bolt easily, I may move those bolts sometime soon which will make this pitch 8 bolts)

Rappel the route with a 60m rope thru the belay ledges. A 70m rope will rap to the ground from "Cactus Ledge"

Location

5 feet right of Suntoucher. The route parallels that route for the first 80 feet and then diagonals right towards a prominant pillar on the right skyline. It then climbs up the smooth red buttress left of the pillar and up along the right side of the upper headwall

Protection

All bolts/QD's. 10 QD's plus anchoring slings/biners for P3 - If you combine pitches 1 & 2 you need 14 QD's plus anchoring slings at the ledge

Photos