Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sun Devil Wall

Appendicitis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Devil S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Heat Seeker S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Icarus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Seventh Sun S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Suicidal Society S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sun Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sun Devil Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Suntoucher S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Rich Strang & Mike Phalan
Page Views: 2,326 total, 33/month
Shared By: Rich Strang on Mar 16, 2012
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


13 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Finished to the Top.
P1*** - Climb just right of the original Suntoucher, on steep rock with big holds that looks loose but is quite solid (Heat Seeker is the most right line with gray hangers). Climbing is mostly 5.8 with a harder 5.9ish move midway, move to the Suntoucher belay on the left at about 60 feet- 6 blots to anchors
P2*** - Move back right to clip the bolts below the roof arete. Climb the "bouldery" V2ish roof section past the first 3 bolts (climbing is mostly just left of the bolts). Exit onto the upper ramp where Suntoucher climbs straight up. From here diagonal up and right on pretty clean moderate rock to the 2nd crack and climb up to "Cactus Ledge" - Awesome belay stance!! (5.10+/11a over the roof) 60 feet - 8 bolts to anchors, can be combined with P1.
P3**** - Stem/chimney up along the pillar and move left at the 3rd bolt. Climb the right side of the roof up killer rock and diagonal left towards the arete. Make a final hardish move to the hanging stance at about 85 feet (5.10 c/d) - 10 bolts to anchors
P4**** - Head up and left from the belay, most people will probably climb into the corner. This section has weird looking rock that looks loose but we cleaned it all good - trust it. Continue up the corner (stepping right to the arete breifly is OK, we cleaned that good too) At the top of the corner, chug out left onto the headwall with some wild overhanging & squencey moves up onto a small ledge and then the top. 70 feet (5.10+) - 9 bolts to anchors (I left an intemediate bolt at the crux for people that can't clip the crux bolt easily, I may move those bolts sometime soon which will make this pitch 8 bolts)

Rappel the route with a 60m rope thru the belay ledges. A 70m rope will rap to the ground from "Cactus Ledge"

Location

5 feet right of Suntoucher. The route parallels that route for the first 80 feet and then diagonals right towards a prominant pillar on the right skyline. It then climbs up the smooth red buttress left of the pillar and up along the right side of the upper headwall

Protection

All bolts/QD's. 10 QD's plus anchoring slings/biners for P3 - If you combine pitches 1 & 2 you need 14 QD's plus anchoring slings at the ledge
jayci
Flagstaff
 
jayci   Flagstaff
 
This climb has some issues. I'm sorry to knock an effort as I know putting up routes takes tons of work. The first pitch is the most terrible example of grid bolting I have seen in a long time. The second pitch has you in contact with Sun Devil at least once. The last pitch has a perfect corner crack that is bolted! I'm not sure of the local ethics, but this is sad. The climbing is less than KILLER as well. Jan 15, 2014
I see! Thanks a lot Rstrang! Aug 5, 2013
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
That's Suntoucher that you were on
Suntoucher weaves around the Heat Seeker roof arĂȘte and then contiues straight up the 5.10 faces. 5.11 Headwall up high is pretty hard and there's some ugly blocks to climb over Jul 29, 2013
Does anyone have info on the climb that (I think) shares the first set of chains with "Heat Seeker" but then goes left instead of right? Jul 29, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Great Route!!! The last pitch is spectacular. The first and second are not as memorable due to varied rock quality, but the climbing is easy enough and its definitely worth getting to the last two pitches of fun, quality rock climbing. I think this route will clean up nicely with a little traffic and the first two pitches will become good too.


Thanks again for all your hard work Rich. Apr 30, 2012
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
Thanks Aaron. I think you'll really like those upper pitches. It's really fun and varied climbing on real nice rock. Really cool exit Apr 11, 2012
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
Nice work Rich-
Looking forward to trying it. Should be good in the shade all Summer til about 11am. Apr 9, 2012
Rich Strang
Santa Fe, NM
 
Rich Strang   Santa Fe, NM
 
All the climbing turned out to be really cool, especally the upper pitches
We cleaned all pitches quite well but still approach with some caution. The 2nd pitch roof problem is pretty neat and the 3rd pitch up on the red butress is KILLER. The 4th pitch up the corner & out the headwall is very sequency but on awesome jugs. It felt very 5.11 up there but I'm pretty sure that its just powerfull and EXCITING 5.10

You could do some fun & very moderate multi-pitch (CHEAT-SEEKER) if you do the easy 5.8/5.9 first pitch of this route - Then avoid the roof problem by climbing the first 3 bolts of Suntoucher. After clipping the "hidden" 3rd bolt on Suntoucher P2 - continue out right to Heat Seeker and up to cactus ledge. Do the 3rd pitch of Heat Seeker and while you're up there give the 4th pitch a try - the holds are really big, it's just quite airy and intimidating Apr 7, 2012