Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: May 2019 Jenna, Jeff, William
Page Views: 826 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jordan Young on Jun 4, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Location

Persephone's Parole is left of Suntoucher, begins in the dragon scales and ascends Sun Devil Wall by way of the obvious dihedral that goes from hand crack to off-width to chimney.

Description

First Pitch: The climb starts 8 feet left of Suntoucher on slightly overhanging 5.10a terrain with technical sequences. The line doesn't converge on Suntoucher, when the sequence becomes less obvious, move left, then right, then straight up through the final few feet of the initial overhanging section. The easiest sequence is not obvious so it could feel harder than it's rated. The second half of the pitch cruises past cactus on low angle 5.7 terrain. Missing a gear placement, which easy to do, could make it PG13. The first pitch ends after stepping over a bulge into an attractive dihedral with finger a crack. The chains are 15 feet above.

Second Pitch: Follows the obvious crack with some interesting face moves before pulling into the off-width. Getting lucky with the Leavitation and it goes at 5.8, or eschew the crack and ride the struggle buss to freedom, 5.10. After the off-width section, stem past the fun chimney to  chains at the left side of the chasm.

Third Pitch: Obvious bolt line. After the fourth bolt one can move left onto low angle terrain (the legit way) or trend right on steeper rock (converging with Suntoucher for a move or two-- not so legit but fun), then up the final off-width dihedral and thrutch over the lip to the third pitch chains- wary of loose rock.

Protection

All the anchors are bolted with chains. Each pitch can be rappelled with a 60m rope.

First pitch: small nuts and cams up to hand sized pieces, tricams can be helpful in triangular pockets

Second pitch: Cams from 1 to 6 (Camelot equivalent) with doubles from #2 through #5. On the top half RPs and small nuts, or an entirely unnecessary #4 big bro, can offer protection.

Third pitch: 4 draws, 1 to 2 inch cams, a small and mid sized nuts and possibly a number 2 ball nut and a #4 Camalot for the final wide crack.

Photos