Avg: 1.8 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||2,853 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||mtnrobb on Feb 4, 2009|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Access Issue: Juan Tabo Canyon is subject to annual access closures from March 1 to August 15. Details
The USFS-imposed closure applies to UNM Spire, the Prow, the Ramp, and the Shield (but not the Knife Edge). The Needle, and its south and east approaches, are unaffected.
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closure for some areas in the Sandias Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Falcon Closure Details
The Shield is closed from February through mid-August for peregrine falcon nesting. The Knife Edge is open year-round.
A fun outing up the middle of the Shield. Easy fifth class gets you into the gully leading up and right to a large clump of trees. From here, traverse left on a ledge with trees, climb up onto a narrowing ledge that ends by a left-facing dihedral. Make a move down and left into the dihedral, before climbing up, back right onto a little prow and mantel up by a tree with a sling on it. From there climb up and left to the next large clump of trees. Mid-fifth class climbing gets you into the next gully, which you follow up and right to its end. From here you can probably choose which dihedral to climb for the last pitch(crux).
The route is in the middle of the Shield. Approach via the Fletcher trail and when it starts a long right-ward traverse, bushwhack straight up to the start. Alternately, traverse in from the Rincon Spur. Descend by down-climbing the Knife-Edge (fastest) or continue to the Crest and take the Chimney Canyon or La Luz trail down. Moving quickly, you can do the approach in just over an hour, but 2 hours+ seems the consensus.