Elevation: 5,429 ft
GPS: 34.003, -106.991 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,030 total · 109/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

Description

This wall has around 18 routes, some uncompleted, faces due west, and features a shallow cave on the left end. All routes are fully bolted, though some share anchors. The cave also apparently has a few boulder problems. These are probably the longest hard routes at Socorro.

Getting There

From the upstream entrance to box canyon, the wall is visible to the east. Before entering the Box, cross the wash and find a decent trail that cuts up the hill side just south of the major rock outcroppings. In 5 minutes you will arrive at the left end of the wall, below the cave. There are 4 bolted easy routes (sub 5.7) at the far right end of the cliff (aka Hueco Wall).

Routes

(The following information was taken from a comment by Shirtless Mike)

This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.

Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a

Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe (5.12a)
Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall.
Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave.
Gank Move (12a or 11c?)
Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
Too High for Bry (5.12a/b)
Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake.
Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors)
Spreadlock Holiday (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
If You Can't Do It Glue It (12b/c)

This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
Duran's Pharmacy (new route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top).
Duran Duran (11c to intermediate 12a to top).
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj (5.11b)
Buttercup (5.12d): New route, looks thin.
Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
New Kids on the Block (5.10d)

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 10
Inchworm Arete
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 39
New Kids on the Block
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Social Distancing
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 34
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Unknown Lance Route
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Duran Duran
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Little Caterpillar
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Window Shopping
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Red Tag Sale
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 15
Almost Blue
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 4
Spreadlock Holiday
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 19
Full Penetration
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 6
Buttercup
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 15
Sinister Dane
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 4
Insider Trading
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Inchworm Arete
 10
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
New Kids on the Block
 39
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Social Distancing
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj
 34
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Unknown Lance Route
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Duran Duran
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Little Caterpillar
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Window Shopping
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Red Tag Sale
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Almost Blue
 15
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Spreadlock Holiday
 4
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Full Penetration
 19
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Buttercup
 6
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sinister Dane
 15
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Insider Trading
 4
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
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