Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall) Rock Climbing
|GPS:||34.003, -106.991 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.
Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe (5.12a)
Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall.
Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave.
Gank Move (12a or 11c?)
Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
Too High for Bry (5.12a/b)
Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake.
Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors)
Spreadlock Holiday (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
If You Can't Do It Glue It (12b/c)
This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
Duran's Pharmacy (new route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top).
Duran Duran (11c to intermediate 12a to top).
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj (5.11b)
Buttercup (5.12d): New route, looks thin.
Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
New Kids on the Block (5.10d)
Classic Climbing Routes at Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
Days w Precip