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Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall) Rock Climbing
Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
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96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New Kids on the Block S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pork Corn V9 7C |
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Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Social Distancing S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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| Elevation: | 5,429 ft |
| GPS: |
34.0013, -106.99046 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 28,431 total · 143/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski |
Description
This wall has around 18 routes, some uncompleted, faces due west, and features a shallow cave on the left end. All routes are fully bolted, though some share anchors. The cave also apparently has a few boulder problems. These are probably the longest hard routes at Socorro.
Getting There
From the upstream entrance to box canyon, the wall is visible to the east. Before entering the Box, cross the wash and find a decent trail that cuts up the hill side just south of the major rock outcroppings. In 5 minutes you will arrive at the left end of the wall, below the cave. There are 4 bolted easy routes (sub 5.7) at the far right end of the cliff (aka Hueco Wall).
Routes
(The following information was taken from a comment by Shirtless Mike)
This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.
Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe (5.12a)
Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall.
Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave.
Gank Move (12a or 11c?)
Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
Too High for Bry (5.12a/b)
Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake.
Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors)
Spreadlock Holiday (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
If You Can't Do It Glue It (12b/c)
This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
Duran's Pharmacy (new route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top).
Duran Duran (11c to intermediate 12a to top).
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj (5.11b)
Buttercup (5.12d): New route, looks thin.
Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
New Kids on the Block (5.10d)
This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.
Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe (5.12a)
Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall.
Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave.
Gank Move (12a or 11c?)
Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
Too High for Bry (5.12a/b)
Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake.
Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors)
Spreadlock Holiday (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
If You Can't Do It Glue It (12b/c)
This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
Duran's Pharmacy (new route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top).
Duran Duran (11c to intermediate 12a to top).
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj (5.11b)
Buttercup (5.12d): New route, looks thin.
Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
New Kids on the Block (5.10d)
Classic Climbing Routes at Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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All Photos Within Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)
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