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Routes in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

96 Degrees S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Almost Blue S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Buttercup S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Deputy, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Dreadlock Holiday S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran's Pharmacy S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Full Penetration S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gank Move S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
If You Can't Do It Glue It S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Inchworm Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insider Trading S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Little Caterpillar S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New Kids on the Block S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Red Tag Sale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sinister Dane S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Spreadlock Holiday S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Too High for Bry S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Window Shopping S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Elevation: 5,429 ft
GPS: 34.003, -106.991 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,265 total, 69/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 17, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This wall has around 18 routes, some uncompleted, faces due west, and features a shallow cave on the left end. All routes are fully bolted, though some share anchors. The cave also apparently has a few boulder problems. These are probably the longest hard routes at Socorro.

Getting There

From the upstream entrance to box canyon, the wall is visible to the east. Before entering the Box, cross the wash and find a decent trail that cuts up the hill side just south of the major rock outcroppings. In 5 minutes you will arrive at the left end of the wall, below the cave. There are 4 bolted easy routes (sub 5.7) at the far right end of the cliff (aka Hueco Wall).

Routes

(The following information was taken from a comment by Shirtless Mike)

This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right.

Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a

Uncle Fester Gets Sent to Europe (5.12a)
Almost Blue (12c): Regarded as one of the best lines on the wall.
Sinister Dane (13b): Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
Full Penetration (12d): Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
Coven (14a): pulls lip at middle of cave.
Gank Move (12a or 11c?)
Insider Trading (13c): Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
Window Shopping (12b): Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
Too High for Bry (5.12a/b)
Red Tag Sale (12b, 11b to intermediate anchors): Starts from a large boulder / flake.
Dreadlock Holiday (12d, 11+ to intermediate anchors)
Spreadlock Holiday (5.12?): Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
If You Can't Do It Glue It (12b/c)

This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
Duran's Pharmacy (new route 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top).
Duran Duran (11c to intermediate 12a to top).
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj (5.11b)
Buttercup (5.12d): New route, looks thin.
Little Caterpillar (5.12b)
New Kids on the Block (5.10d)

22 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Inchworm Arete
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
New Kids on the Block
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unknown Lance Route
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Duran Duran
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Too High for Bry
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Little Caterpillar
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Window Shopping
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Almost Blue
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Duran's Pharmacy
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Full Penetration
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Buttercup
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Sinister Dane
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Insider Trading
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
The Deputy
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Inchworm Arete 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
New Kids on the Block 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Unknown Lance Route 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Duran Duran 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Too High for Bry 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Little Caterpillar 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Window Shopping 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Almost Blue 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Duran's Pharmacy 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Full Penetration 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Buttercup 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Sinister Dane 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Insider Trading 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
The Deputy 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Filet de Papillon Wall (aka Dirt Wall) »

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Hey John, I had always thought it was a wierd name. Though I was traslating it to Butterfly steak, yummy. Dec 19, 2009
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
The name for this wall is "Filet de Papillon", english translation; "the butterfly net". Calling it Fillet et Papillon is pretty funny and could loosely be translated as; a boneless steak cut from a tenderloin of beef and butterfly.
That being said, pretty much everyone that knows Socorro generally refer to this as the Dirt Wall. Dec 19, 2009
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
People taking the lowering biners bugs the hell out of me. Some things I've done is spray painting them black before putting them up and using some bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chains. Certainly neither action keeps determined people from taking them but the paint makes the biners look much less appealing and the bailing wire sends the message that "yes, these are supposed to be here...someone didn't just happen to forget two biners on chains." Oct 14, 2009
djkyote  
Some moron(s) have been taking the lowering carabiners from chains during the 2009 summer - STOP IT! Many of these were set on mid-anchors to make optional moderates from the longer 12s for beginners and classes. It isn't 'booty,' - you are endangering others and stealing from the climbing community. Oct 14, 2009
lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
that route is too fly for Bry extended to the top by John and tim it climbs really well with cool finish moves. Dec 25, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Yep, checked it out this weekend, it does go all the way to the top of the wall. Looks good and fairly hard. Nov 30, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
It did not seem like a variation start necessarily, it looked like it goes almost all the way up the wall. Nov 26, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Hey Lee I heard this is a starting variation to Window Shopping that avoids the loose flakes and initial thuggery, suppose to be a similar grade to Window Shopping. Nov 24, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
I believe there is a new route between Window Shopping and Red Tag Sale, no idea as to the grade. Some of the climbing looks pretty good. Has shinny new silver Fixe hangers. Anyone know anything about this route? Nov 22, 2008
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
This wall can get quite confusing with all the obsolete information, and many many linkups in the cave and upper headwall. Here is a listing of the main mostly independent lines from left to right. I haven't climbed a few of these so some of the grades could be inaccurate.

Uncle Fester routes: Left of the cave, there are several lines and linkups. 12a - 13a

There is also a new line that climbs out the steep headwall above the ledge where the Uncle Fester routes end. T.R.A.S.H 13b/c, steep climbing on not so great holds, first several draws are fixed.

1. Almost Blue 12c, Hard start to fun jugs climbing.
2. Sinister Dane 13b, Starts out of the left side of the cave for three bolts, then up the headwall.
3. Full Penetration 12d, Shares start with Sinister Dane to anchors inside cave.
4. Coven 14a, pulls lip at middle of cave.
5. Gank Move 12a, starts up right side of cave to shared anchors with Full Penetration.
6. Insider Trading 13c, Starts out of right side of the cave and up the headwall.
7. Window Shopping 12b, Starts out far right side of cave on underclings and flakes.
8. Too High for Bry 12a Starts 5 feet right of Window Shopping.
9. Red Tag Sale 12b, 11b to intermediate anchors, starts behind a boulder / flake.
10. Dreadlock Holiday 12a, 11+ to intermediate anchors
11. Spreadlock Holiday 5.12c Climb Dreadlock holiday but veer right towards the top.
12. If you can't do it Glue it. 12d, Around 11+ or 12a to intermediate anchors. Tricky sequence around 2nd bolt, and at the top pulling the final bulge.

This is where the formerly dangerous route with the bolts in the loose flakes was. There are now two routes here that share an intermediate anchor and one bolt above the anchor.
13. Duran's Pharmacy 11a to intermediate, 12b/c to top.
14. Duran Duran 11c to intermediate 12a to top.

15. Bob Marley Meets Master Ganj 5.11b
15.5 Lance route, Extension to Bob Marley 5.11d
16. Buttercup, 5.12d, Looks thin.
17. Little Caterpillar 5.12b, Thin and Painful, but worth doing.
18. New Kids on the Block 5.10d, The Warmup
19. Inchworm Arete 5.8 extension of NKOTB Feb 4, 2008

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