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Routes in WatchTower

Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 100 ft
FA: Lee Brinckerhoff Nov. '06
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Aug 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Off the top of the crux pitch of Cry for Merlin, head straight up the orange wall starting out a little left up through a roof and some vertical seams to a ledge out right near the arete. Then more seams head up and trend slightly left into the shallow grove. Finish with a giants staircase to the top of the wall.


Bolts and gear up to a #1 camalot

APPROACH You an approach this and Cry for Merlin/Crybaby by rappelling in from the top. When you come to where you have to move down and right to get to the normal rappel tree there will be an obvious "top" just in front and to your left. If you step out onto this and look down to the left there is small gully feature. There are 2 pins in the right hand wall of this gully, you should be standing almost directly on top of them. These an be backed up with .75 camalot or 1.5 friend. If you use a long cordalette to equalize and extend them a few feet you an rappel with a single 70m rope to the anchor at the top of the crux pitch of Cry for Merlin (tie a knot in the ends as it reaches with a foot or two to spare)...I'm not sure at this time if a 70m then reaches the anchor at the base of the crux pitch as well, but I don't remember carrying 2 ropes


John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
It is hard to tell, but there is actually a piece right at my waist and I got another within a body length. Oct 7, 2010
J. Albers
J. Albers   Colorado

In your photo, it is kinda hard to tell, but it looks like the leader is maybe 10-15 feet out from the last piece of gear. How far was the next piece of pro? Oct 7, 2010
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
This pitch can be led without the bolts, it protects adequately without any of the fixed protection. Oct 7, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
Did this again today and it might be easier than .11-, might be .10+. Aug 14, 2010