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Cry for Merlin
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 4
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Routes in WatchTower
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Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Bryan Pletta |
| Page Views: | 763 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 11, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
Descend via the standard rap route as for Excalibur (this will be a hard swing to the right if you start at the crux pitch). Belay at the right set of anchor bolts (the left set being for Excal) and ramble up the easy start (5.8) to where the business starts on the slab. Awkward and balancy moves take you out the crux through a well protected, slightly overhanging, sharp arete. Pass up the last bolts before the belay to avoid some serious rope drag, or take double ropes to not have to worry about it and just clip the bolts.
The exit pitch is trad 5.9 that pros well and is an easy finish.
The exit pitch is trad 5.9 that pros well and is an easy finish.
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