Mountain Project Logo

Routes in WatchTower

Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bryan Pletta
Page Views: 107 total · 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 11, 2007
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Descend via the standard rap route as for Excalibur (this will be a hard swing to the right if you start at the crux pitch). Belay at the right set of anchor bolts (the left set being for Excal) and ramble up the easy start (5.8) to where the business starts on the slab. Awkward and balancy moves take you out the crux through a well protected, slightly overhanging, sharp arete. Pass up the last bolts before the belay to avoid some serious rope drag, or take double ropes to not have to worry about it and just clip the bolts.
The exit pitch is trad 5.9 that pros well and is an easy finish.

Location

Located just to the right of Excal, this is the obvious arete with the best position of all the climbs on this wall.

Protection

set of draws, trad rack up to #2 or Camalot. 2 x 50m doubles is great.

Photos

- No Photos -
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Glad to see this route on the database, this is one I have wanted to do for a while.

Why the PG13 rating? Are there any sections of hard climbing where you don't want to fall?

Is the direct finish to this crybaby or something? 13a? Nov 30, 2007
John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
  5.12b
The PG section is right off the anchor and traversing to the first bolt. Not a good place to fall and only about 5.10+ or so but, committing moves and an ugly swinging fall onto your belayer are enough incentive to not come off.

I haven't been back on the route since the 5.13 variation was established and the new final pitch to the top. Nov 30, 2007
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.12b PG13
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.12b PG13
Hey Marc, I did actually add a bolt or two that now stays on the face and goes at 5.12+, there is a little jesery involved to make it that grade, 5.13- if you are as hard headed as I was on the FA. Aug 3, 2008

More About Cry for Merlin

Printer-Friendly