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Routes in WatchTower

Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 340 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Brian Komen and Mark Thomas (1990)
Page Views: 1,950 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Aug 31, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Overall, Seventh Sojourn has mostly good rock and adequate protection. In my experience, pitch 2 is the pitch that stands out: heady traverse to small pro followed by enjoyable steep climbing. The guide "Sandia Rock" indicates that pitch 3 is the crux pitch (5.9).

P1 (5.7 to 5.7+): Face and crack climbing mostly straight up the major weakness to a bolted belay just after a chimney formation - which can be avoided by staying left.

P2 (5.9, crux pitch): Traverse right several moves and then up as needed to get some small pro (~1/3 inch) near the base of the flake. Then ascend the flake followed by climbing a left trending dihedral above the belay to a bolted anchor.

P3 (5.7-5.8): Traverse left, then up and right, then up past a bolt (may be difficult to see). Continue mostly straight up until finding a short vertical crack above a small horizontal ledge: gear anchor from about 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches (0.5 to #1 camalots).

P4 (5.8): Seventh Sojourn proper continues mostly straight up and through a small chimney/roof and then to the top. Gear anchor.

If the leader runs out the start of the 3rd pitch a bit then the second can skip the vegetated traverse and instead get immediately into some enjoyable terrain (5.9?) - i.e., climb up while trending left from the belay through small features and a couple shallow cracks before resuming pitch 3 proper.

At the top of pitch 3 and from the described gear anchor, the bolt visible up and left about 15 feet protects a few 5.10a moves of a p4 variation which then continues up past the 1st bolted anchor for the rap of The WatchTower.

Location

The start of the route is found after rapping down The WatchTower. Much of Seventh Sojourn can be previewed during the raps.

Protection

Anchors from bottom to top are bolts, bolts, gear, and a couple large trees about 20 feet back from cliff top. Standard rack to 2 1/2 inches. Cams or slider nuts less than 1/2 inch useful.
Kerr Adams
Albuquerque, NM
5.9
Kerr Adams   Albuquerque, NM
5.9
Fantastic route!

The fixed line and pitons at the top for the descent is still in great condition. Thanks Marc!

Not to be rude to Robin, but the gear on P2 is not at all tricky. Super fun pitch! The moves off of the belay for P2 look tricky, but don't worry, they aren't that bad. Sep 4, 2013
Will Vining
  5.9
Will Vining  
  5.9
This is a good route with great rock! Fun climbing on cracks and flakes in the first half gives way to cool face climbing in the second half. I'm not sure if I went the 'right' way on pitch three. Going up and trending left directly from the anchor via some small flakes leads to a cool groove around the corner and good face climbing protected by small stoppers. The 5.10a finish provides just a bit more fun face climbing to top things off. Sep 4, 2013
Robin
Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
Robin   Albuquerque, NM
  5.9
P1 5.7 maybe 5.7+. Crux for me was a little chimney/dihedral thing right before the anchor. It looks really weird, especially after all the juggy cracky climbing below, but I chimneyed it with my back facing west and it felt very secure.

P2 5.9 definitely the crux pitch. Exactly as described in the route description. Gear is a bit weird in the left trending dihedral, which is also the crux. Small cams useful here.

P3 57/5.8 ish. Pretty mellow except for a little step across right from the right trending crack system to just below the bolt. Don't go too high. You will traverse about 10 feet below a spot where the flake/crack has a small wide section. The traverse is also at approximately a place to put a nice solid #1. The bolt is very nicely colored almost exactly like the rock and I didn't see it until I was a couple feet below it, but them again I am blind. I used 2 #1's and a .5 for the belay.

P4 5.8 for about 15 feet moving straight up from the belay and for a very short traverse left. After that it becomes easy climbing on blocks. Unlike many Sandia routes, this segment is not particularly loose.

If you should "decide" to leave all the nuts at home for this one, make sure you have like 15 small cams or so (which luckily enough we did). There are several places where nuts would have been preferable. Jun 8, 2009
Running pitches 1 & 2 together makes for a great pitch.
Just runner out (or skip) the first pitch bolt belay to avoid drag. Jun 5, 2008