Avg: 2.6 from 14 votes
Routes in WatchTower
|Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 340 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Brian Komen and Mark Thomas (1990)|
|Page Views:||1,950 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on Aug 31, 2007|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionOverall, Seventh Sojourn has mostly good rock and adequate protection. In my experience, pitch 2 is the pitch that stands out: heady traverse to small pro followed by enjoyable steep climbing. The guide "Sandia Rock" indicates that pitch 3 is the crux pitch (5.9).
P1 (5.7 to 5.7+): Face and crack climbing mostly straight up the major weakness to a bolted belay just after a chimney formation - which can be avoided by staying left.
P2 (5.9, crux pitch): Traverse right several moves and then up as needed to get some small pro (~1/3 inch) near the base of the flake. Then ascend the flake followed by climbing a left trending dihedral above the belay to a bolted anchor.
P3 (5.7-5.8): Traverse left, then up and right, then up past a bolt (may be difficult to see). Continue mostly straight up until finding a short vertical crack above a small horizontal ledge: gear anchor from about 1/2 to 1 1/2 inches (0.5 to #1 camalots).
P4 (5.8): Seventh Sojourn proper continues mostly straight up and through a small chimney/roof and then to the top. Gear anchor.
If the leader runs out the start of the 3rd pitch a bit then the second can skip the vegetated traverse and instead get immediately into some enjoyable terrain (5.9?) - i.e., climb up while trending left from the belay through small features and a couple shallow cracks before resuming pitch 3 proper.
At the top of pitch 3 and from the described gear anchor, the bolt visible up and left about 15 feet protects a few 5.10a moves of a p4 variation which then continues up past the 1st bolted anchor for the rap of The WatchTower.