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Routes in WatchTower

Alchemy T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cry for Merlin T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Crybaby S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Excalibur T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seventh Sojourn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sword In The Stone (Clarent), The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Watchman's Secret T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Watchman's Secret, Variation T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Type: Trad, Alpine, 340 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Brian Komen, Mark Thomas 1990
Page Views: 184 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 24, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

A Fun 3 pitch climb, the second pitch of which is great.

Pitch 1: 5.10a ~100 ft PG13
Face climb off the ground on jugs to a straight in obtuse dihedral. Place some small pro to a piton and head left. 5.9+, (I thought this was the crux). Continue up with sparce gear to a low-angle groove with a 5.10a slabby crux.

Pitch 2. 5.10d ~140 ft
A great exciting pitch
Face climb up from the belay to the bolt, can sling a flake and get a small nut. Clip the bolt at the crux and pull 5.10b moves to a nice stance under a roof. Head left (tricky) to the main left facing dihedral. Head up placing small pro to another roof. 5.10d crux, Lie back around this and head up to easier ground. Run the victory lap to a nice belay 40 ft higher. Good gear and optional bolt on Seventh Sojourn. Belay takes .75 - 1 camelot's.

Pitch 3 5.10a or 5.9 100ft
5.10a variation, head left clip a bolt and make a few moves of 5.10a

5.9 Head straight and right and head up a chimney, can angle right for more climbing.

Location

After the rappels you will be at the base of Seventh Sojourn, head uphill about 20-30 ft, and look for a piton in a obtuse dihedral.

Protection

Nuts + 2X Camelots .3 to #2, 1X #3, or equivalent. Some smaller C3's came in handy. Could also place some small slider nuts if desired.

Photos

mattb19
 
mattb19  
 
Got back on this thing after years of not climbing it. I would definitely have some micro nuts for the first pitch. The pin is still there but does seem lose and angled somewhat down. Even with micro nuts the whole first pitch is rather run out. The nice rappel anchors for Watchman's Secret do give you a good feeling for cruising the ramp as you can clip the closest bolt to it for pro. Jun 29, 2015
Re: loose pin in P1: A good samaritan must have given it a tap recently. It still could probably use another good bash, but I wasn't able to wiggle it. Also re: P1, it was very nice to have my micro offset nuts as those were all I could really place from my rack. The low-angle slab that looks cruisey from the rappel is actually quite delicate climbing and run out. The seams are very shallow in the bottom 1/3 of the route. Jul 30, 2014
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Regarding Mick's comment about the fixed pin, I was able to wiggle it by hand, beware. Sep 15, 2012
Mick S
Utah
Mick S   Utah
I highly recommend the new rap route down the Watchman's Secret, it ends at the base of Excalibur. 70 meter rope required. The fixed pin in the corner at the start of the first pitch is 20+ years old and showing it's age. Micro nuts are useful to back it up. Jul 27, 2012
mattb19
 
mattb19  
 
I feel like you can get away with a single set of cams. It was also nice to have some trango slider nuts. May 10, 2009