Knife Edge Ridge

This route is a long, technical scramble on a narrow, exposed ridge which involves some low 5th class climbing. Plan on a full day at high elevation and understand that an unprotected fall on this route will be fatal. 

The distance from the trailhead to the summit of the North Peak (10,446ft) is roughly 4.5 miles with 3,600ft of elevation gain.

The Knife Edge is the long, prominent granite ridge just above The Shield—the dramatic 1,000-foot cliff face that dominates the northern end of the Sandia Mountains. This route is often soloed, though plenty of parties bring rope and gear to protect the infamously exposed 5th class section called "The W," which is located in the upper third of the route.

Perched high above Albuquerque, the ridge will reward you with unforgettable views and a true alpine adventure just minutes from the city. Arguably the best ridge scramble in the Sandias (maybe even New Mexico), the route will test both your physical endurance and your relationship to exposure. Expect steep 1,000-foot drop-offs on both sides of the ridge and moments where careful route-finding is required.

The lower two-thirds of the ridge involves 3rd/4th class scrambling and is generally easy to navigate. The route gets serious when you reach "The W", where the ridge narrows significantly and the options to move through this technical section become extremely exposed, with several hundred feet of drop-off on either side. Some people traverse straight through "The W" toward the headwall, while others downclimb to the left onto a ledge and use that to continue up toward the headwall. For those bringing rope/gear, you will want to rope up before "The W" and may want to stay roped up until you top out the headwall. The technical climbing and exposed scrambling is over once you get through the headwall section.

Before climbing this route, you must be prepared for loose rock and rapidly changing weather. Be willing to turn around if the day doesn't go as expected to keep yourself and your party safe. The Sandias often have afternoon thunderstorms, which result in the ridge being windy. Any precipitation will result in slippery granite. Wear good approach shoes (or comfortable climbing shoes), and pack warm/rain layers and plenty of water. The route has little to no shade if the sun is out.

If you don’t have experience with technical scrambles, I don't suggest you attempt this route alone. Go with a partner who has done it before or build experience on easier objectives first. An unprotected fall on this route will be fatal.

WARNING: KNIFE EDGE DURING WINTER
Snow is hidden in the trees and always present above the ridge (November–April)
The Knife Edge is open year-round, but during November through April, deep snow is typically present above the ridge, hidden in the trees and not visible from below. Many parties have been caught off guard by these conditions—forced to posthole for over a mile up the ridge through the trees to reach the Crest Trail, then another mile south to the parking lot, often in waist-deep snow. Some parties have been close to hypothermia due to not being prepared. Daytime temperatures in Albuquerque may be 65°F, but true winter conditions persist above the ridge which tops out at 10,446ft. For winter ascents, you're strongly advised to have experience in alpine snow conditions and to carry warm layers, snowshoes, gaiters and waterproof boots. The rocky scrambling section of the ridge may also hold snow/ice if there’s been recent precipitation. 

The standard approach is from the bottom, starting at the Piedra Lisa-South Trailhead, a dirt parking lot at the end of Forest Road 333 (35.222406, -106.4848611). Follow the Piedra Lisa trail north for 2.3 miles to the top of Rincon Ridge. From there, leave the maintained trail (which starts down the other side) and continue up the ridge on an unmaintained climber's trail (may involve a bit of bushwhacking). You're aiming for the bottom right side of the big ridge!

See map for downloadable GPX track for approach/route.

HOW TO DESCEND
Once you have completed the scramble section of the Knife Edge, there are several options for descending:

• Direct Return: Scramble back down the ridge (not-recommended, expert only)
• Technical Descent: Rappel via the fixed lines to reach The Ramp at the base of The Shield. Hike down The Ramp, staying mainly close to the wall, to connect with the unmaintained Fletcher trail. This drops you back on the Piedra Lisa trail where you’ll turn (south) to return to your car (see map for downloadable GPX tracks)
• Hike Out Options (via the Crest Trail):
  • To upper parking lot (pickup/second car): Continue 1 mile up ridge, then 1 mile south to the Crest parking lot.
  • To upper Tram Terminal: Continue 1 mile up ridge, then 2.8 miles to the upper Tram Terminal (ticket required). The Tram is not always open and may close when windy, so have a Plan B. Once down the mountain, it's a 3.5 miles hike north to the Piedra Lisa Trailhead or stage a second car at the Tram.
  • Hike down La Luz Trail: Continue 1 mile up ridge, then 1 mile south to the Crest parking lot. Located the Spur Trail and follow it down to connect with the La Luz Trail. Descend the La Luz Trail. At the parking lot, there's a connecting trail to the Piedra Lisa Trailhead.
  • Hike down Chimney Canyon: Continue 1 mile up ridge, then 1 mile south to the Crest parking lot. Located the Spur Trail and follow it down to connect with the La Luz Trail. Descend the La Luz Trail. At the parking lot, there's a connecting trail to the Piedra Lisa Trailhead.

ARCHIVED INFO
A previous route description suggested descending from the top via a route on the north side of the Shield, involving extensive route-finding and bushwhacking to reach Rincon Ridge. This is only recommended if you have knowledge of the terrain and are comfortable navigating off-trail in the Sandias. "Follow the Crest Trail north, until you see the "10K Trail" post mark. In this clearing go to the edge of the limestone band, and start descending the gully. There are some game trails but for the most part you`ll be suffering in the brush. The prominent ridge line on your left is the Knife Edge."

The route is often soloed, though plenty of parties bring rope and gear to protect the infamous 5th class section called "The W," which is located in the upper third of the route.

A gym rope and a single rack should be enough to get you through the technical climbing.