Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Carolyn Parker & John Kear, 2004 or so
Page Views: 2,003 total · 18/month
Shared By: Robin on Aug 6, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Access Issue: June 15, 2018 - Sandia Mountains closed due to Cibola National Forest Stage III fire restrictions Details


This is one of the best easy routes at the crag, but requires (very minimal) gear. Good to TR beginners on.

Heads up a right facing flake / finger crack and then a crack / slab.

You can also lead the the crack in the corner 3 feet left of the flake or any combination of the two you like and stay at 5.7.

I prefer to do one then the other for the most bang for my buck.


75 feet left of Sweet Jane at a place where the trail jogs downwards a few feet.


Single set of cams (C4) from 0.3 to #1. Doubles of 0.4 and 0.5 if you are worried. Single set of nuts would be fine too. 2BA.


John Kear
Albuquerque, NM
John Kear   Albuquerque, NM
Carolyn Parker and I put up this route in 2004 or so. Finger Flake is as good of a name as any. Nov 21, 2010
The Bavarian
New Mexico
The Bavarian   New Mexico
Climbed crack and slab today. Fun short trad. Be aware, on the flake, half way up is a loose hold. It sounds hollow, looks like a great hold, but when i climbed past it, it jiggled a little. Is still attached enough that i was not able to remove it, but just a heads up. If it is gone, it won't make that move harder since it will open another crack in the back of it. Aug 7, 2016