Avg: 3.7 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Bryan Pletta & Doug Teague|
|Page Views:||1,860 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Aug 7, 2010|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
The topo and description in Mick's guidebook were accurate and very helpful. I'd recommend you use them.
Pitch 1 - (5.11d, 90'): A hard start leads to the first bolt, traverse left to a 2nd, mantle up to [a new bolt, which replaced fixed pins as of 6/2019] and reach the tricky crux of the route 30' up. Turn the crux and climb up and right in a small left-facing corner, then find devious 5.10 climbing up past 3 more fixed pins and reach the belay.
Pitch 2 - (5.11c, 80'): Climb an awkward roof straight above the belay. Face climb up to a bolt, then angle right to another bolt. Climb straight up, or right of, a pin-protected seam to a fixed belay. Some of this pitch is spooky and/or is protected with small gear..
Pitch 3 - (5.10a, 130'): Clip a fixed pin just above the belay, and move left to a bolt. Face climb right to a pin, make a weird move just past it and a small run-out to a bolt. Angle left past a steep blocky section to a rest stance. Head up and right, switching between 2 cracks, to the belay on a ledge.
Pitch 4 - (5.11b/c, 80'): Step off the right end of the ledge, boulder 15' up, and traverse back over top of the belay. Steep liebacking off flakes up and left takes you past a bolt and a fixed pin to another bolt, which protects a thin traverse left to a rest below a small right-facing corner. Climb up the corner, into a groove, passing a bolt and fixed pin to gain a ledge. Clip another pin, and another easier boulder problem leads to the fixed belay.
Pitch 5 - (5.10b, 150'): Step left of the belay, and climb a right-facing corner, passing 2 fixed pins. Move right below a roof, clip a bolt, climb up and step left up above on easier terrain. Angle right on easy cracks below a right-angling roof and build a belay at a stance.
Pitch 6 - (5.6, 130'): Climb up and right on easy licheny, flakey stuff to the trees below the summit. Scramble up 3rd class to the high point of the Alioth's summit, and you're half-way done. Descent info is on Alioth's main page.
Bring 14 draws (many shoulder-length).
Gear is mandatory on most pitches:
-nuts, including RPs
-2 ea. cams from #0.3 to #0.75 camalot
-1 ea. smaller TCUs or equivalent
-1 ea. red (#1) and yellow (#2) camalot
We climbed this with a full-length trail line, from which we hauled the pack and shoes; this seemed like a good strategy for this route.
Approach shoes or similar are nice for the 4th class scramble/return to the trail.