Avg: 3.7 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Bryan Pletta & Doug Teague|
|Page Views:||2,082 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Aug 7, 2010|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On July 1, 2020, the New Mexico state governor issued an executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on July 1, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
The topo and description in Mick's guidebook were accurate and very helpful. I'd recommend you use them.
Pitch 1 - (5.11d, 90'): A hard start leads to the first bolt, traverse left to a 2nd, mantle up to [a new bolt, which replaced fixed pins as of 6/2019] and reach the tricky crux of the route 30' up. Turn the crux and climb up and right in a small left-facing corner, then find devious 5.10 climbing up past 3 more fixed pins and reach the belay.
Pitch 2 - (5.11c, 80'): Climb an awkward roof straight above the belay. Face climb up to a bolt, then angle right to another bolt. Climb straight up, or right of, a pin-protected seam to a fixed belay. Some of this pitch is spooky and/or is protected with small gear..
Pitch 3 - (5.10a, 130'): Clip a fixed pin just above the belay, and move left to a bolt. Face climb right to a pin, make a weird move just past it and a small run-out to a bolt. Angle left past a steep blocky section to a rest stance. Head up and right, switching between 2 cracks, to the belay on a ledge.
Pitch 4 - (5.11b/c, 80'): Step off the right end of the ledge, boulder 15' up, and traverse back over top of the belay. Steep liebacking off flakes up and left takes you past a bolt and a fixed pin to another bolt, which protects a thin traverse left to a rest below a small right-facing corner. Climb up the corner, into a groove, passing a bolt and fixed pin to gain a ledge. Clip another pin, and another easier boulder problem leads to the fixed belay.
Pitch 5 - (5.10b, 150'): Step left of the belay, and climb a right-facing corner, passing 2 fixed pins. Move right below a roof, clip a bolt, climb up and step left up above on easier terrain. Angle right on easy cracks below a right-angling roof and build a belay at a stance.
Pitch 6 - (5.6, 130'): Climb up and right on easy licheny, flakey stuff to the trees below the summit. Scramble up 3rd class to the high point of the Alioth's summit, and you're half-way done. Descent info is on Alioth's main page.
Bring 14 draws (many shoulder-length).
Gear is mandatory on most pitches:
-nuts, including RPs
-2 ea. cams from #0.3 to #0.75 camalot
-1 ea. smaller TCUs or equivalent
-1 ea. red (#1) and yellow (#2) camalot
We climbed this with a full-length trail line, from which we hauled the pack and shoes; this seemed like a good strategy for this route.
Approach shoes or similar are nice for the 4th class scramble/return to the trail.