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Early Access
Routes in West Ridge - part A - Verschneidung to base
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A Moveable Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Allosaur T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Auntie Perspirant T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Blind Mouse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Blues Power T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Clean Freak T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Crow's Landing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Earnest Stemmingway T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ernest Extended Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Exterminator, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Farmer's Wife, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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First Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Flyback T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Foaming Cleanser T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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High Anxiety T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Importance of Being Earnest, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Initial Hangover T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Initial Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jam Con T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kickin' Chicken T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Leg of Ilg T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Leggo My Ego S,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Mineral Maze S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Morning Thunder T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Odarodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Office Girls Walk The Plank T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Party Pooper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Piece Easy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Pinky Promise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Pork Chop T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Quo Vadis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ranger Danger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Roadside Attraction T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Runsholl Scrunch T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Shot and Chaser T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleepytime T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Something Blue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Stepping Stones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Super Scooper T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Territorial Integrity T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Thunderbolts From Hell T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13 |
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Thunderworld T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Trivial Pursuit T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R |
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Turkey Jerky T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Up the Downclimb T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Verschneidung Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Verschneidung Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Water Line T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wild Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wingshot T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wishbone T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 39.93063, -105.28689 |
| FA: | Chris Reveley & John Ruger, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 1,847 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 20, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
Start as for Wingshot. The 11b grade given here is for that first pitch- the rest is considerably easier (5.10?).
Cross the stream near the Milton Boulder to reach the big amphitheater on the West Ridge, just up and across the stream. The broken rock hanging in the amphitheater makes it look daunting. [Nonetheless], there are a few good lines through it; Wingshot is one of them, with the best option on Wingshot being the Shot and Chaser finish. Head up the trail until a foot-worn path leads up and right, as for the approach of Allosaur. You will walk and scramble to the slab below the amphitheater. If you arrive at the base of Allosaur, traverse down and right to reach the slab below Wingshot. Wingshot and Shot and Chaser are at the very right hand edge of the attached photo, although the routes are obscured by shadow.
At the lower right end of the amphitheater there is a broken overhang that goes to a few underclngs, then to a thin hands and finger crack on the left side of an inset, past fixed slings on a chockstone (now yellow and red). From this point Shot and Chaser deviates from Wingshot.
After clipping the slings on the chockstone with a runner, move up and left to place a 2" cam or brown tricam in a 4" by 1.75" feature/crack/pocket on the left (solid). Now move out and right through the second bulge at the right hand side of the inset. The climbing is steep and it is a struggle to keep your weight on your feet. Hit and undercling or a sharp fingerlock to get over the bulge and around a corner. From there go up to a slightly less than vertical wall and hand traverse to the right 6 feet to the left-facing dihedral former by a wall and the huge flake at the right hand side of the [amphitheater] roof. Climb this dihedral for 10 feet and then finish up and left for gear at the summit. (stoppers + cord-e-lette on a huge horn)
To descend, lower from the anchors below just over the lip of the roof, ~80 feet.
Protection
Rack for Wingshot: One large cam (#4 Camalot) for the broken area at the base, cams 1" -2" for the long crux sequence (1" crux at the crux move), and a few nuts or small tricams. A 2" cam or brown tricam for just above the inset "slot."Rack for shot and Chaser finish: A .5" TCU + cams 2-3" plus a few stoppers or tricams. You need several 2" slings to avoid drag.
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