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Rush Buick 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Erickson, John Behrens, 1969.
Fixed Hardware: 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,216
Submitted By: Ben Mottinger on May 31, 2001
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Looking up the the route Rush Buick

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route starts near the upper section of the ridge. Pass by the [prominent] roof (described in the rock section) and continue up the gully past some chossy cliffs. The upper section will be apparent when some reasonable looking routes start appearing. As the gully steepens, the trail turns from grass/dirt to more talus and scree. Before the very top of the ridge, the trail turns to rock slabs. Before this section, about 50-60m down the hill, look for a bolted arete and a right-facing dihedral. Rush Buick takes the dihedral.

Whew...If you manage to locate the route, you'll have some fun. There are two cruxes on the route--the first is negotiating the first bulge, then 10m later, another bulge. Some fun liebacking/stemming gets you through these sections up to an easy ramp. Take the ramp up 15m to a belay on the right with a bunch of slings. Rap 100' to the ground from here.

I hesitated giving this route two stars, but it was just long enough with an excellent crack. Maybe 1.75 stars. ;-)


Descent 

Slings have appeared from time to time for a rappel descent. Alternatively, you can traverse to and rappel off the Heart of Gold anchors. Finally, you can rappel of the Nobody's Home anchors.

Eds. apparently now there is a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack up to #3 Friend. Either a 60m rope or double ropes are required to rap back down.



Photos of Rush Buick Slideshow Add Photo
January Playmate is the crack on the left....
January Playmate is the crack on the left....
Rush Buick climbs the right-facing corner; Heart of Gold breaks left and climbs a steep bolted face.  The bolt on the right is on Emergency Brake. <br /> <br />There is NO rap anchor atop Rush Buick; bring slings and rings and try to find a place for a rap anchor after 70', or be prepared to climb to the top of the ridge and exit to the left.
BETA PHOTO: Rush Buick climbs the right-facing corner@SEMICOLO...
"THE SLINGS ARE BREAKING!"   <br />Just kidding.
"THE SLINGS ARE BREAKING!"
Just kidding.
A fine pitch.
A fine pitch.
CM in the middle of the pitch.
CM in the middle of the pitch.
Comments on Rush Buick Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 15, 2010
By Matt Pierce
From: Morrison, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13

CONDITION REPORT 

We found a lot of wasps all around this route last weekend - from the belay to the anchors - not sure of the source. Just be aware.

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 7, 2001

I actually thought this route was pretty good, 3 stars! If the approach was as short as Calypso it would be as popular.

By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Mar 14, 2002

How about 2.5 stars. 5.7 corners don't get much better than this. I look forward to doing this route again but the approach was kinda crummy. Fun route, though.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Apr 2, 2002

Nice solid route. It could use a new rap sling and removing about half of the six that are there would make it easier to clip. The existing slings look pretty weathered.

By pete cogan
Oct 12, 2002

New sling added 10/12/02. Fun route.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 11, 2002

This route is easy to find using the picture below.

Rating history:In the 1970 High Over Boulder and Ament's 1972 "5.10" this is rated 5.4!In Ament's 1980 "Eldorado" it's rated 5.5 or 5.6.In Erickson's 1980 Rocky Heights it's rated 5.6.

By Tonya Clement
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 7, 2003

My partner and I climbed on Saturday, April 6th just before the snowfall. Great ridge in the winter...no wind and we had the warmth of the sun (probably 45 degrees in Boulder). We didn't have too much trouble finding the route...just make sure you get off the East Slab [descent] trail early and head towards the ridge. We went a bit high and had to back track as we weren't certain we could cross over from high up. The actual route was easy to spot thanks to the picture posted by Scott : - ).

As a semi new leader it felt all of 5.7 (and a tiny bit harder than Calypso) because the crux is so close to the ground. It did protect...this I know because I sewed it up. There is a good sequence that took me a while to figure out but once you get it...it is so fun. It was just not obvious at first. I used every small cam on my rack.

Once finished you can top rope a fun 5.9+ just to the right. Oh, we cut out one of the old crusty slings and added a new one.

I will go back and do it again. It is unique but aren't they all?

By Kenny Gruchalla
From: Denver, CO
Jun 3, 2003

Nice varied moderate. There is rap station 80' up the route (a slung horn on the right side of the ramp) allowing for a single (50 m) rope rappel.

By rob.calm
From: Loveland, Colorado
Sep 15, 2004

I climbed the route today and the slings were gone from the horn that's been used for about 20 years to rappel. Maybe just as well as the structual integrity of the horn seems [questionable]. As far I can figure, this leaves 2 ways to get off. Climb to the rappel bolts on Heart of Gold on the left (second rappel station further down). It's troublesome getting to the bolts. The second way down is to do an easy pitch to the top and then scramble to the very north end of the ridge. Makes for a long descent. A rappel station on the left wall would be a welcome addition.

By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
Sep 16, 2004
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Climbed this on Labor day. Since there were no anchors at the top of the route - we went up and left along the rotten band at the top to near the top of Heart of -Gold. There is a small tree w/ slings (I added a quick link) about 10 feet back. A 60m rope will just barely get you down the bushy corner below the tree. Anchors more in line with the route would be nice.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 7, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Gear Alert

A great climb for the first 70 feet. After that, easy but runout climbing. I continued up, looking for the anchor mentioned in Rossiter's guidebook: "Rappel 100 feet". There is NO rappel anchor for this route: not on a horn, not on a tree.

I continued to a loose ledge about 110' up, managed to get in a decent anchor (after a 40' runout) and brought up my partner, who scanned the area for rap anchors. The only anchor in sight was the bolts at the top of Heart of Gold. My partner climbed a ramp to a tree just above the Heart of Gold bolts.

From the tree, we managed to get down to the Heart of Gold bolts, which are on a vertical wall with a hanging stance. A 60m rope got us to the ground with a little rope to spare. This descent is NOT recommended; it's not easy getting to the Heart of Gold anchor from the tree.

It might be possible to install a rap anchor on this tree, but the tree is less than 6" in diameter and doesn't instill confidence. We also weren't sure if a 60m rope would reach the ground from the tree (in retrospect, it probably would just make it).

Another alternative may be to continue to the top of the ridge and then descend to the left, but the rock is junky and loose. Traversing left on the ledge system at 110' also looks possible, but this is littered with loose rock as well.

Anyone doing this route in the future should bring slings and rings and look for a good place to install a rap anchor as soon as the difficulties end after 70' of climbing. We had brought up slings, rings, quick links, and a knife, but by the time I got 100' up, there was no place to install an anchor, other than the aforementioned tree.

By Eckhard
From: Denver, CO
Dec 28, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Felt like a 5.6 Eldo. I thought Calypso and Washington Irving offered more of a challenge. Rap down after 30 meters/100 ft. Two connecting holes w/ a bridge in the rock make it possible to thread a sling with a rap-ring. I wouldn't use the smaller of the two rock bridges, but somebody else did. SCARY! oh, to the left of the tiny tree that I also would tie to.

By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Feb 5, 2010

Has a bolt anchor now....

By Luke Clarke
From: Golden
Mar 15, 2010

Two stars and 5.7. This would be a three-star trade route if the approach didn't suck. This one and Nobody's Home are "must do" climbs when you're in the area because you're probably not coming back soon. It's one of the cleaner and more consistent lines on this formation.