Kickin' Chicken 

FA:  Wayne Crill New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 536 page views Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Nov 6, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This spectacular route has steep, fun climbing on mostly good rock with great position overlooking the creek and the Milton Boulder. I use a severity/spiciness rating based upon hot chilies with three grades: i) Jalapeno is serious enough to require attention and can easily burn you if not careful; ii) Habanero is the famously hot pepper that can easily spoil one's day if not treated with proper respect; and iii) The Peruvian Rocoto pepper is the spiciest and most flavorful of the hot peppers, failure to overcome the associated risks will be regretful. I think the Chicken is a mild Habanero route. Were it not for some crumblies in the roofs, I, and others who have been on it would consider this route a solid three stars.

Kickin' Chicken climbs the obvious crack system moving up and left through the roofs right of Wingshot and left of Wild Turkey in the amphitheater/alcove area at the bottom of the West Ridge. The route climbs the initial 40' of Wild Turkey then moves left through the large roofs to access the steep crack continuing for 50' more up and left to the ridgeline. From the alcove at the base of Blues Power and Wingshot, follow the ledge/break below the blocky magenta band ~ 40' right to a small exposed ledge overlooking the creek where Wild Turkey starts. It is a good idea to set a belay here with small nuts and med. tricams.

Climb the first 40' of Wild Turkey (5.11) past four bolts to the underclings below Wild Turkey's crux bulge. Hang a long sling here and instead of climbing straight up over this bulge, move left around the bulge and then up through an exciting boulder problem to access the left angling crack system. Continue up and left with small cams along the steep crack to tricky moves getting out onto the headwall, then up 20 more feet of nice 5.8 in L. facing dihedral to the ridgeline topout. A tricky to place nut (should be fixed) protects the boulder problem crux as you leave the bolts of Wild Turkey en route to the well protected crack proper.

It is very difficult to top rope this route because of the left angling nature of the line. However, if one wishes, a natural toprope anchor can easily be placed 20' below the ridgline in the crack just above the roofs at the bottom of the headwall. ENJOY!

Protection 

Gear: nuts, micro cams, gear to 2", one 3' extendable sling, 4 quickdraws.