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Alpine Rock

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Babcock Peak 
Blanca Peak 
Buffalo Mountain 
Capitol Peak 
Chimneys of Treasure 
Citadel, The 
Crestones, The 
Ellingwood Point 
Fletcher Peak to Atlantic Peak 
Fluted Peak 
Frasco's Toe 
Gore Mountain Range 
Grizzly Peak 
Holy Cross Wilderness 
Indian Peaks 
La Plata 
Little Bear Peak 
Maroon Bells 
Mount of the Holy Cross 
Mt. Evans 
Northern San Juans 
Pacific Peak 
Pyramid Peak 
Quandary Peak 
RMNP - Rock 
Rolling Mountain 
San Juans 
Sawtooth Ridge, Mt. Bierstadt/Evans combo 
Tenmile Range 
Tijeras Peak 
Torrey's Peak 
Rest Day:
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Alpine Rock Rock Climbing 


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Location: 40.2565, -105.6569 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 727,895
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Aug 11, 2005
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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I was going to take a shot of Ken on the summit, h...

Description 

This "area" is for alpine rock climbing in Colorado. Alpine is probably the true "Mountain" Project terrain. These routes truly lie in the mountains. This is the terrain of the alpinist, the all-arounder. Generally here, you must be comfortable in whatever the environment will throw at you.

Alpine is the home of the marmots and pikas in the warmer months. In the colder months, this is the land of the frozen. Scattered here is the terrain in which weather, exposure, season, loose rock, ice, snow, route-finding, lightning, precipitation, and altitude can dramatically affect one's experience. All these climbs involve heights of at least 8,000 feet and are above treeline. With these factors comes increased risks but potential for increased rewards and memories that can last a lifetime.

Getting There 

These climbs cover the state from the Crestones, the Sangre de Cristos, the Mosquito Range, the Collegiates, the Sawatch, the San Juans, the Gores, the Front Range, the Elks, the Indian Peaks, the Mummy Range, the Never Summer Mountains, Rocky Mountain National Park or whatever range you wish to include. Look high and you will find them. You will drive but then you will hike, since most all of these will require some extended approaches. Some will require overnight trips. Nearly all will have season considerations for the majority of climbers.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.6 miles from here

768 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',98],['3 Stars',304],['2 Stars',261],['1 Star',88],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',116],['5.7',52],['5.8',51],['5.9',75],['5.10',105],['5.11',62],['5.12',28],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',9],['V2-3',54],['V4-5',40],['V6-7',45],['V8-9',36],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',35],['>=V14',3]

Classic Climbing Routes in Alpine Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Alpine Rock:
The Kind (originally In Your Face, then Standard Overhang - after the block was removed)   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine, 12'   Tyndall Gorge : Emerald Lake
Tommy's Arete   V7 7A+     Boulder, Alpine   Lower Chaos Canyon : The Automator Boulder
Little Bear-Blanca Traverse   5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c     Trad, Alpine   Blanca Peak
Wham Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 2000'   The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak
Northeast Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth
North Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Ellingwood Ledges   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   The Crestones
South Face   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon
Kit Carson / The Prow   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   The Crestones
Culp-Bossier   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak
Syke's Sickle   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 900'   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
The Flying Buttress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   RMNP - Rock : Mt. Meeker
Casual Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
The Barb   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches   Glacier Gorge : Spearhead
Days of Heaven   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   Long's Peak : The Diamond
D7   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
Ariana   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Long's Peak : The Diamond
The Wasp   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Alpine Rock

Featured Route For Alpine Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Beginning last pitch. Photo courtesy John Dickey, ...

Directissima 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Chasm View Wall
A great three pitch on Chasm View Wall, NOT on the Diamond. A good training route for the more committing lines of the Diamond, takes significantly less time to approach and descend (depending on descent taken). Approach Mills Glacier but instead of climbing the North Chimney to Broadway continue North on the glacier. Scramble up easy grassy ledges to beneath the middle of Chasm View Wall. Continue up and right to the bottom of an obvious grassy ledge beneath the right facing dihedral. P1: ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Alpine Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Hi there, guys!
Hi there, guys!
Rock Climbing Photo: Quite the gathering of juveniles.
Quite the gathering of juveniles.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mountain goats.
Mountain goats.
Rock Climbing Photo: Clearing snowstorm in the Grenadiers.
Clearing snowstorm in the Grenadiers.
Rock Climbing Photo: Grazing rights.
BETA PHOTO: Grazing rights.
Rock Climbing Photo: San Juan vista.
San Juan vista.
Rock Climbing Photo: Remote San Juan wall.
Remote San Juan wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: La Platas sunrise from Mesa Verde, 9-2009.
La Platas sunrise from Mesa Verde, 9-2009.
Rock Climbing Photo: One of a herd of mountain goats just above the Len...
One of a herd of mountain goats just above the Len...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leaving Beartown and Hunchback Pass . . . .
Leaving Beartown and Hunchback Pass . . . .
Rock Climbing Photo: The Diamond.
The Diamond.
Rock Climbing Photo: Kelso summit goat.
Kelso summit goat.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great bouldering up Lime Creek . . . I think.
Great bouldering up Lime Creek . . . I think.
Rock Climbing Photo: To serve, to strive . . . .
To serve, to strive . . . .
Rock Climbing Photo: Long's Peak Diamond and boulderfield.  Photo by Bl...
Long's Peak Diamond and boulderfield. Photo by Bl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Monitor Peak's East face in the Needles in Colorad...
Monitor Peak's East face in the Needles in Colorad...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting a traverse across the Harvard-Columbia kn...
Starting a traverse across the Harvard-Columbia kn...

Comments on Alpine Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 22, 2016
As I've been looking for mountain climbs to do recently, I'll suggest this page would be a bit more user-friendly with a bit more re-organization of sub-areas. I'll suggest the below as a start, similar to how its done in the 14er guides, but keeping individual Front Range areas separated.

1) Tenmile Range
----all currently listed areas
----Fletcher Peak to Atlantic Peak
----Pacific Peak
----Quandary Peak
2) Sawatch Range (needs a new page)
----Frasco's Toe
----Grizzly Peak
----Holy Cross Wilderness
--------Mount of the Holy Cross
----La Plata
3) Elk Mountains (needs a new page)
----Capitol Peak
----Chimneys of Treasure
----Maroon Bells
----Pyramid Peak
4) San Juans
----All currently listed areas
----Babcock Peak
----Rolling Mountain
----All peaks from Northern San Juans
5) Sangre de Cristo Range (needs a new page)
----Blanca Peak
----The Crestones
----Ellingwood Point
----Fluted Peak
----Little Bear Peak
----Tijeras Peak
6) Gore Mountain Range
----All currently listed areas
----Buffalo Mountain – move to the Buffalo Mtn page already listed under Gore

These are the Front Range areas:

7) Indian Peaks -as is
8) Mt. Evans
----All currently listed areas
----Sawtooth Ridge, Mt. Bierstadt/Evans combo
9) RMNP - Rock –as is
10) Torrey's Peak – doesn’t really fit in other areas
11) The Citadel – doesn’t really fit in other areas
12-100) Other areas/ranges as they get posted, e.g. (Pikes Peak, etc.)

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