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Routes in Ypsilon Mountain

Blitzen Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blitzen Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Prancer Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Y Couloir (Left Branch) 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c X
Y Couloir (Right Branch) T
Elevation: 13,514 ft
GPS: 40.457, -105.681 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 24,676 total, 128/month
Shared By: paco on Jan 28, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

One of the most beautiful mountains in the park. the SE face of Ypsilon Mountain is one of the only steep faces in the Mummy Range and is guaranteed to be an escape from the crowds. This 2000 ft face is bordered by ridges on either side forming its own awesome cirque. The left side of the cirque is Donner Ridge, a nice 4th-class hike. The right side is the classic Blitzen Ridge. 5.4 to 5.7? The center of the cirque, the Y Couloirs are reserved for the alpinists. These couloirs hold the remote RMNP alpine experience.

Descent for all Ypsilon routes- either run down the backside to the trail head on Fall River Road (provided it's open). 2nd choice, descend Donner Ridge, or into the cirque between Ypsilon and Chiquita and back to Ypsilon Lake.
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Getting There

Approach- find the Lawn Lake trail head and trudge on up to Ypsilon Lake. From there take a less obvious trail NW and try to find Spectacle Lakes (a great place to be!). From here the Y Couloirs are straight ahead in the middle of the face. Donner is to the left and Blitzen is to the right.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ypsilon Mountain

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Colin R
Ottawa, ON
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
This is truly a beautiful and worthy mountain for any solo hiker who wants some adventure off of the beaten path. I climbed the southern left ramp of the mountain in 2010 solo. It's pretty much 4th class talus scrambling the whole way up but was still rather committing for a solo ascent (I believe this may be the descent route for some parties who are ice climbing). To do this line, you have to cut into the valley to the left of the cwm. May 20, 2012

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