Avg: 3.5 from 259 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bob Culp & Tex Bossier|
|Page Views:||62,984 total · 303/month|
|Shared By:||Patrick Vernon on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionIn my opinion, this is the best of the classic moderates in the park. The crux on this one is almost overhanging and 700 feet up. Awesome face climbing on a big face with a direct line. The leader should be confident on 5.8 as routefinding is hard, and many pitches are runout at 5.6. Follow the Rossiter guidebook description to find the route.
Getting ThereFrom the Bear Lake parking lot, follow the trail to Emerald Lake. Go left around the lake, scrambling through some talus and taking a climbers' trail that closely follows the base of the peak.
You are aiming for the second buttress. Look for the white/pink band or rock that intersects the base of the mountain - the route starts right there, about halfway across the second buttress. It is about 100 feet to the right of a huge right-facing dihedral, and just right of a couple much smaller dihedrals.
DetailsPer C. Vernon:
P1-Climb up light colored rock, head up a left-leaning corner a short ways, traverse right on a ledge to a short thin crack, and climb that to another ledge (5.6, 140 feet).
P2-Go up past rappel slings, turn a roof and head up and LEFT into a nice right facing corner (the middle of three such corners). Belay at the bottom of the corner (5.6, 120 feet). Be sure to traverse LEFT to the larger dihedral - going straight up the smaller dihedral above the roof is much harder. There are several sets of bail slings to the right - don't get sucked over there.
P3-Climb the corner, traverse right on a ramp past fixed pins, pass a bulge and climb past more pins to a belay on a ledge (5.8, 160 feet).
P4-Head sharply left on easier, broken terrain to a huge grassy ledge on the left side of a prow.
P5-Continue left of a blunt prow for 140 feet of outstanding face climbing, but beware of a loose block in mid pitch (5.6).
P6-Traverse out of a left-leaning corner and angle up slightly right to a belay below a right-facing corner (5.6, 140 feet, runout).
P7-Climb the face to the left of the corner (somewhat dicey), and head straight up extremely exposed cracks with decent pro to an easier section (5.8, 140 feet).
P8-Continue straight up cracks towards a large roof, which you will leave on your left. Traverse out right and climb the face to avoid some dirty looking overhangs, reaching easier ground and then a very loose summit (5.8, 80-100 feet).
DescentThe fastest descent is a rappel and downclimb down the first buttress, to the east of this route.
Hike about 1/3 mile down the ridgeline (maybe 200 vertical feet), pass the first major incut gully (which faces north) and then go down another 50-60 vertical feet, 400 feet or so of horizontal walking. Look for the cairns marking the rappel to your left (northeast). Rap one 60m drop if you have two ropes, or two 30m drops to a ledge. Downclimb the sections below you, then follow the cairns as the wrap around to the left (to the north, and then to the west, back towards the beginning of the climb). You will NOT be going down the huge gully to the right (east), which looks very tempting. You will end up a couple hundred feet below the start of the route (5 minutes back to the base).