Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: R. Northcutt, Carter
Page Views: 13,681 total · 92/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Odd, wasn't this in the database?

Note, this route is now probably 5.10R unless someone has figured out an easier start.

This was originally a 50 Classic Climbs route. There has been much history about this route. Once, it carried a somber reputation of a fear-inducing North Wall. However, a couple Californians came to erase that reputation with an afternoon ascent. In its former state, it provided a great, moderate line up the 3rd buttress. With the rock fall which changed the first 2 pitches in the late 1990s, this route's start increased in difficulty to the 5.10 R range. Still, some loose rock exists in the section between the 2nd and 3rd buttresses which runs across the start of this line. Route finding still is a bit challenging, as evidenced by bits of scattered gear along the route.

Per Bob Dergay: alternatively you can: "start this route by going up the wide crack/squeeze chimney on the Kor-Van Tongeren route just to the right of the scar. Head up as if you're starting the Kor-Van Tongeren, then after emerging from the squeeze chimney (5.8ish) you do a pitch left (75-80 feet), staying essentially level and you'll come to the old anchors/slings that were the original Northcutt-Carter 3rd pitch start."

The approach takes about 1 1/3 to 1 1/2 hours.

P1. Ascend a corner to a chimney about 1/2 a rope length, move left, pass a smooth section and belay at a reasonable stance. ~110'.

New line - Ascend somewhat fractured rock.

P2. Ascend a dihedral, move left into another dihedral, pass pins, then move left again into another dihedral, and belay at a ledge. ~150'.

New line - TBA.

P3. This can be a route-finding challenge. Move up ~20' then move left to a smaller-than-you-think right-facing dihedral (~80' out) that is the right side of a subtle pillar. You'll likely pass 3 pins. You'll be drawn further left than you think, if you don't look carefully. ~160'.

P4. Go up a crack above this pillar in a R-facing dihedral. Continue up a left-facing dihedral and belay in nook. You'll likely pass some pins & fixed nut. ~150'.

P5. Pass a bulge on its right side, then move left, pass a ledge, fade right, go up to a 2nd ledge with a pin. ~160'.

P6. Continue up a shallow dihedral up and right with a pin past a bulge. Continue up left past fixed pins into a chimney. The belay seemed semi-hanging. ~165'.

P7. Climb up and right, then undercling left, pass a bulge, and continue up somewhat a chimney with pins at the top. ~140'.

P8. Move slight down to a gully, continue to the top of the wall.

Descent: hike uphill/right into the gully bordering the right side of the third buttress. This is loose in spots and can provide some excitement. Near the bottom of the gully, you must trend a bit uphill, climber's right, to keep the descent mellow.

Location

This is on the third/rightmost buttress of Hallett Peak.

Protection

Wires, cams to #4 Friend, some hexes.

Photos