Type: | Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Carl Love, Bill Hurlihee, and Dean Eggett |
Page Views: | 7,515 total · 38/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Shupp on Jan 29, 2002 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Seasonal Closures March 1-July 31. Check Rocky Mountain National Parks site for seasonal wildlife closures:
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Description
The route ascends the lower left-hand side of the second buttress. Here, there is a subsidiary triangular buttress that ends at the great white band.
P1. On the right side of the triangle buttress, there is a low-angle, loose gully of junky 4th class climbing that can be reached by climbing a a 160 foot 5.6 pitch up a grassy, right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is the next main feature to the left of the Culp-Bossier.
P2-3. Next, pick your way up the gully for about 300 feet.
P4. At the top, belay a 5.6 pitch that continues upward through the white band for about 160 feet.
P5. Next, begin traversing right as you follow features up to a sloping ramp (5.6 - 5.7).
P6. Now, change your belay to the top of the ramp (angling up and to the right) for 50 feet. Finally, the exciting crux pitch traverves to the right under a big roof.
P7. Follow the steep line of fix pins and mank to the huge jugs at the top of the roof (5.9).
Take a look back at the valley floor before cranking over the top. SPECTACULAR!
P8. Finish the route by topping out over another easy 5.6 roof to gain Hallett Peak's flat, sloping summit ridge (150 feet).
P1. On the right side of the triangle buttress, there is a low-angle, loose gully of junky 4th class climbing that can be reached by climbing a a 160 foot 5.6 pitch up a grassy, right-facing dihedral. This dihedral is the next main feature to the left of the Culp-Bossier.
P2-3. Next, pick your way up the gully for about 300 feet.
P4. At the top, belay a 5.6 pitch that continues upward through the white band for about 160 feet.
P5. Next, begin traversing right as you follow features up to a sloping ramp (5.6 - 5.7).
P6. Now, change your belay to the top of the ramp (angling up and to the right) for 50 feet. Finally, the exciting crux pitch traverves to the right under a big roof.
P7. Follow the steep line of fix pins and mank to the huge jugs at the top of the roof (5.9).
Take a look back at the valley floor before cranking over the top. SPECTACULAR!
P8. Finish the route by topping out over another easy 5.6 roof to gain Hallett Peak's flat, sloping summit ridge (150 feet).
Denver, CO
Lyons, CO
Skip the first three pitches of "crap climbing" by doing the first three of "Better than Love." Then finish on the Love route, by heading straight for the big huge black roof above (which provides the final 5.9 move to the summit).
Climb Better than Love to the top of the triangular buttress (about 3-4 pictches). At the top of the triangle buttress, take the left side of a huge pillar to its top, as described. Following this, I ran it out for a full rope length on runout 5.7 - 5.8? face climbing before settting a belay on a sweet ledge immediately below the black roof. There is a multitude of unnecessary fixed gear on the way up to this roof. Exit the right side of the roof (follow the pins), which I found easy for 5.9. Aug 25, 2003
Superior, CO
4. From the large ledge at the top of the pitch 3 (or pitch 4 if climbing BTL), climb the left side of a large pillar to a small sloping stance at the base of a RIGHT-facing flake, 5.6.
5. Climb the right-facing flake, which leads to a right-facing corner. Climb up this and move slightly left, then up to a ledge with two bolts (possible belay), 5.7. Continue up easier ground to a good stance about 75' below the large roof (old piton).
6. Lead up the left-facing corner dropping from the right edge of the roof, 5.9. There are several fixed pins in place but none of them inspire much confidence. Angle left above the roof then continue to the summit.
All of these pitches are close to 200'. Jul 18, 2004
Denver, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
Out of the Loop