Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Eli Helmuth / Scott Rennak, 8-26-06
Page Views: 3,044 total · 19/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 30, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

(I've changed the route rating due to some repeats (when dry) that confirm our "storm experiences" likely gave us an over-estimation of the difficulties. It has been gladly down-graded. Not sure if anyone has been able to exactly follow the route description below but then again, it is Hallett where even the best can get lost.- Eli)

This addition to Hallett's North Face involves 6 new pitches just left of the classic Direct Second Buttress route. Four of the six pitches were done as 60m rope stretchers. The fourth pitch ascends the striking right facing dihedral which is the right side of the "Big Yellow Flake" which the Jackson-Johnson climbs on its left side.

This route stays left of the Kor Route by 50' to 100' throughout its duration and is a relative a directissima up the wall.

P1 - 30m, 5.9. Climb the perfect finger crack in a small, left-facing dihedral then after 40' step left above a small ceiling into the next left-facing dihedral. Traverse left (crux) at the end of this corner for 30' to reach a slung horn anchor which can be strengthened in the crack behind.

P2 - 30m, 5.10-. Head right out of the belay up a featured slab into a small, right-facing corner which is followed through steep ground up and left until reaching an alcove from which a right-leaning crack (0.5 Camalot) (crux) emerges and takes one to the sling anchor (1 pin, nut, horn) - 60m rappel to the ground.

P3 - 60m, 5.9. Climb a splitter finger crack out of the belay up and right, stepping right after 30' into a shallow dihedral which heads straight up on steep juggy large flakes (mostly attached) into the very large, right-facing corner of the yellow flake - worth stretching the rope here as it brings one to a very large, comfortable ledge on the white band.

P4 - 60m, 5.8. Climb the striking,right-facing dihedral of the yellow flake and hold on tight! On the FA this was done as 5.8(X). A few large Camalots would bring this down to an (R) rating. After a ledge, continue to the top of the Yellow Flake Tower which has another spacious ledge system on top.

P5 - 60m, 5.9. Step down and right off the top of the Yellow Flake and follow a crack system up for 50' into a white quartz crack. Step right out of this crack onto a right-leaning ramp which is followed 50' right until a steep but featured face takes one up into another prominent white quartz crack system to a small belay stance.

P6 - 60m, 5.9. Follow this crack system straight up and a little left and belay from the top of the Second Buttress.

A sustained blizzard hit the FA party on this pitch making for a Patagonian-type experience, and both attempts on the wall were done while it was raining and the first attempted ended in an engaging lightning storm.

Location

This route starts approximately 50' left of the Direct Second Buttress route and stays about that far left for the first 4 pitches. The most prominent feature climbed is the right side of the big yellow flake from which it then heads a little right and straight up to the top.

The recommended descent is to the east with 2- half rope rappels and an easy scramble down.

The start is reached via a short 4th class climb up a stepped corner for 50' to reach a large sloping ledge. Two dihedrals- the left with much grass and the right (splitter fingers)start from this ledge- if you went all the way up the right one it meets up with the regular start to the DSB.

Protection

This is an "all natural" route except for one piton which was put in on the second pitch rappel anchor. Retreat in very bad weather was made three times from here before the route was completed.

A standard rack with an emphasis on doubles and triples of all Camalot sizes from 0 to #1. On the FA, a #3 Camalot was the biggest size taken although this necessitated a 50' 5.9+ runout on pitch four -which would have been a very ugly fall. Perhaps one #5 Camalot would protect this wide-crack crux which the leader laybacked and the second off-widthed. The tops of P1, P2, and P4 have sling rappel anchors.

Three or four 72" slings and many shoulder length slings will help reduce rope-drag which is very much an issue on P2.

Photos