Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches
FA: Eli Helmuth
Page Views: 218 total · 99/month
Shared By: j wharton on Aug 13, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is an obscure, yet excellent route, that's definitely deserving of more attention. If you combine the first two pitches into one mega 40 meter pitch, it's among the better 'hard" cragging pitches in RMNP. There is also arguably less drag if you link the first two pitches, and your belayer can see you at the crux, rather than be hidden below the roof at a hanging belay.

Although different in nature, the mega-pitch is equally as memorable, and similar in difficulty, to The Wasp and Bologna Pony. It will need a little more traffic to clean up into a true classic.

You could easily combine this route with the opening pitches of Jackin' The Johnson, and/or End of the Beginning (nice 5.13 on the Hallett Boulder) for a great day of cragging, with reasonable conditions during even the hottest Front Range days. There is significant potential for more hard cragging routes in the white mushroom formation.

Begin with nebulous, and somewhat spicy, face climbing up a small, offset corner (12-). After 20 meters, put a long runner on the final protection bolt, and head left towards the roof. (Don't go right towards the original "first" pitch anchor unless you want to break the pitch into two.)

Pull the roof on surprisingly good holds, with a fixed wire and bolt (use a four foot runner here to reduce drag). Romp up the fun, and juggy, arch on bomber gear, before entering the final crux, which is protected by three bolts. The crux involves power endurance climbing on generally large handholds with small, or awkwardly placed feet, and is very cool. Clipping the second bolt is tricky, but a draw is in-situ.

There is no fixed anchor at the top of the pitch, so after gaining the no hands alcove and easy terrain above the third bolt, simply downclimb a few moves, and lower off a fixed 'biner and draw on the final two bolts.

I have not climbed the upper pitches, but they are described in Rossiter's 2015 RMNP guide. Apparently they are standard Hallett climbing to 5.10.

Location

This is located in the middle of the obvious, white, mushroom formation on Hallett's second buttress. Scramble in on 3rd Class ledges from the west to access a comfortable ledge at the base of the route.

Protection

A single set from 0.3 C4 to #1 C4 plus a few medium to large stoppers will sew up the arch above the roof. You will need a four foot sling on the roof bolt, approximately eight sport draws, and six alpine draws. A 80 meter rope is required, or you will have to lower twice to get off.

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