Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 7 pitches|
|Page Views:||218 total · 99/month|
|Shared By:||j wharton on Aug 13, 2019|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
Although different in nature, the mega-pitch is equally as memorable, and similar in difficulty, to The Wasp and Bologna Pony. It will need a little more traffic to clean up into a true classic.
You could easily combine this route with the opening pitches of Jackin' The Johnson, and/or End of the Beginning (nice 5.13 on the Hallett Boulder) for a great day of cragging, with reasonable conditions during even the hottest Front Range days. There is significant potential for more hard cragging routes in the white mushroom formation.
Begin with nebulous, and somewhat spicy, face climbing up a small, offset corner (12-). After 20 meters, put a long runner on the final protection bolt, and head left towards the roof. (Don't go right towards the original "first" pitch anchor unless you want to break the pitch into two.)
Pull the roof on surprisingly good holds, with a fixed wire and bolt (use a four foot runner here to reduce drag). Romp up the fun, and juggy, arch on bomber gear, before entering the final crux, which is protected by three bolts. The crux involves power endurance climbing on generally large handholds with small, or awkwardly placed feet, and is very cool. Clipping the second bolt is tricky, but a draw is in-situ.
There is no fixed anchor at the top of the pitch, so after gaining the no hands alcove and easy terrain above the third bolt, simply downclimb a few moves, and lower off a fixed 'biner and draw on the final two bolts.
I have not climbed the upper pitches, but they are described in Rossiter's 2015 RMNP guide. Apparently they are standard Hallett climbing to 5.10.