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Routes in Hallett Peak

Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finch Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Northcutt-Carter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Eli Helmuth/ Shane Wilder 7/21/06
Page Views: 5,142 total, 38/month
Shared By: Eli Helmuth on Aug 17, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This addition to the Second Buttress on Hallett combines a few old pitches with some new ones to create a striking line up this classic alpine rock face.

The 110' long second pitch is the crux as it ascends increasingly steeper, striped rock to a 5-bolt protected, pumpy section on the left side of the striking arete just 50' right of the classic Culp-Bossier. These are the only bolts on the route, not including the two originals encountered on the last pitch that is the finish of the Jackson-Johnson.

P1- 5.9 (20m) Climb the initially steep dihedral past some grassy sections then into a short offwidth corner which can be laybacked then from the first grassy ledges, traverse right to a 10' long splitter 0.75" crack which makes for a nice belay- the horn above has a sling on it as well. There is a green double sling as of 5/16/12.

P2 - 5.11 (35m) Climb straight up from the belay, past some loose rock into a wide section under a ceiling which is bypassed on the right by a quartz handrack. Follow this narrowing fissure to the end then left 10' and past a lost arrow which protects balancey moves up right onto the face and the first of 5 bolts through the crux climbing. Two 0.3 cams protect the slabby finish to the bolted anchors (60m rappel to the ground).

P3 - 5.7 (50m) Climb straight up from the anchor past a thin pin and then easier ground to intersect with the Jackson for a few feet, then continue straight up into a wide groove where the Jackson goes right.

P4 - 5.9 (40m) Steep cracks lead straight up to a big belay ledge on the big, quartzite band.

P 5- 5.10a (55m) Traverse left out of the belay on loose rock to an arching, right-facing corner. Pull the roof into the corner and follow this up then head straight out of the top of this crack where it arches right then 15m up to the start of the 61 meter ramp (This is probably P6 on the "Dark Side" route- Rossiter guide).

P6 - 5.9 (61m) Climb the right-angling "61 meter ramp" which is really cool and described as variation 13d in the Rossiter guide.

P7 - 5.9+ (60m) Climb a steep quartz crack out of the ramp end then back left into an obvious right-facing dihedral which is the Jackson-Johnson finish with two ancient bolts.

P8 - 5.7 (15m) A short and somewhat loose pitch takes you to the top.

Location

This route starts just right of the Culp-Bossier, in the second small dihedral to the right (about 50') of the CB start, which is the same as for the Love, Englishman's, and Jackson-Johnson routes, also. The second pitch climbs on the east aspect of an obvious and striking prow with the belay ledge right on top of the prow. The direct start to the JJ starts in the major dihedral system 100' to the west of this prow. Recommended descent is down the east ridge to the rappels. No fixed anchors other than the 2nd pitch are available, so retreat could be a costly endeavor.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 Camalot, doubles of all sizes down to a 0.25 Camalot and extra shoulder length and double-shoulder-length slings are helpful. Five bolts and two pins protect the crux second pitch which ends at a nice ledge on a prow- this is the only pitch with new fixed hardware other than one pin on the start of the third pitch.
Got off route from the Culp and followed a dirty dihedral up to the belay before P5 of this route. Followed this the rest of the way up. Can't speak for the first 4 pitches of it, but the rest is awesome, great exposure.

Beta: DO NOT go up from an awesome, recessed belay ledge (we called it lunch ledge) halfway through the "61m ramp," keep going right. We fortunately did not go up from there, but we saw rap slings a little ways up from people going up here and having to come back down. From there, the route was pretty obvious.

The rack we brought was a beefy set of nuts, BD c4s 0.3-3 with doubles of 0.3, 0.75, 1, and 2. Some smaller cams would have been nice, and a heavier rack would have helped us shorten the climb into the 8 pitches (we did it in more like 11). Aug 20, 2017
Any beta for a good rack to take? Jul 24, 2017
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
Four star second pitch but only two stars on the rest of the route, so three stars overall. Great second pitch! Jul 30, 2015
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
 
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
 
First hold at first bolt broke a little. Doesn't change the grade though. Didn't find the two 0.3 Camalot placements after bolt 5. A 0.4 Camalot placement worked really well though. Really cool route, route finding wasn't too bad. Jul 13, 2015
John F
Cowdrey, Co
  5.11
John F   Cowdrey, Co
  5.11
There is only one fixed pin on the 2nd pitch now. Aug 2, 2008
Kirill Kireyev
Boulder, CO
Kirill Kireyev   Boulder, CO
We could not find this route for the life of us. Any beta would be appreciated. Jul 23, 2008