Second Buttress Tour
Avg: 3.6 from 14 votes
Routes in Hallett Peak
|Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Better than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Finch Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Northcutt-Carter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||9,611 total, 48/month|
|Shared By:||Anonymous Coward on Aug 3, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionHerein is offered a nice little combination of pitches on the Second Buttress of Hallett for those seeking a longer, more continuous excursion up the vague, contorted stone of this famous wall. It combines the Hesse-Ferguson, Culp-Bossier, and Jackson-Johnson for a nice tour. Two characteristics define the common Hallett experience: route finding is very difficult, particularly the higher you go; and the corollary, that with enough mental fortitude one can climb anywhere on this wall. This combination takes advantage of these qualities and offers several excellent pitches up to 5.9. It is perhaps the longest route possible on this part of the wall.
Begin 20m right of the Love Route corner, on a ledge at the base of a right-facing corner (FP).
P1: Climb the corner (long pitch).
P2: Move up into a left-facing corner and belay below a rotten roof.
P3: Move right onto a nice, clean slab, and climb up and R (5.9) to the base of a right-facing corner.
P4: Climb the corner (5.9) to the big ledge.
P5-6: Follow Culp-Bossier.
P7: Angle up a long ramp (5.5) to the base of the crux pitch of Jackson-Johnson (a steep, right-facing corner with fixed pins).
P8: Climb the corner (5.9).
P9: Exit to the top. It is also possible to climb the wall (very runout 5.7) left of the 2 Culp-Bossier pitches, then move right on the ramp.
This is one of my favorite combos in the Park.
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