Avg: 2.6 from 47 votes
Routes in Hallett Peak
|Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Better than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Finch Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Northcutt-Carter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Dale Johnson, Dallas Jackson, 7/4-5/57|
|Page Views:||6,031 total, 38/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is not as good as the neighboring Culp-Bossier, but it is still a worthwhile route on a sublime alpine wall. More of a mountaineering route than Culp-Bossier, it wanders around finding the path of least resistance until running smack into a superb, exposed 5.9 pitch at the top. The middle section of this route is often simul-climbed and overall, I'd say its the easier of the two routes.
To approach, park at the Bear Lake trailhead and hike for a mile and a half on well-marked trails to Emerald Lake. Hallett's Northeast face looms overhead, and if you're lucky, you'll be just in time for alpenglow. Scramble up above the left side of the lake to the base of the face, aiming for the second of three distinct buttresses. A vague prow divides the upper part of the second buttress in half; the route starts directly below this prow, about fifty feet to the right of a huge, broken, corner system.
P1 - climb up light-colored 5.6 rock and enter a prominent, right-facing, left leaning dihedral. After 30 feet or so, traverse right, climb a short crack, and belay on a ledge (5.6, 140 feet).
P2 - climb up past rappel slings, follow a crack over a roof, and head right across a slab to a belay (5.6, 120 feet).
P3 - traverse right around the corner on easy rock, go up an easy groove, and stretch out the rope into a recessed area (low fifth class).
P4 - continue up and right on broken terrain to the base of a giant flake/pillar (with a yellowish tint when viewed from the ground).
P5 - climb the corner formed by the pillar's left side in one long 200 foot pitch or two short pitches (5.6).
P6 - from the ledge atop the pillar, cut back sharply left up a corner system, passing a confusing section of down-climbing in mid-pitch (5.6, 160 feet). Belay on another good ledge. (Many do 2 pitches here to avoid rope drag).
P7 - climb the beautiful corner above the ledge past old pitons and worthless bolts--your own pro will give you more confidence--and belay on a ledge at its top (5.9, 130 feet).
P8 - a short, meandering 50 feet finds the top of the wall.
Descent: the easiest way involves hiking up talus until a gully appears leading down to the northwest. Follow it down to the base of the cliff (bearing left about 2/3 of the way to avoid getting cliffed). This gully is EXTREMELY LOOSE and being in it with other parties should be contemplated with considerable trepidation.