Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Topher Donahue, Scot Gillespie
Page Views: 263 total · 10/month
Shared By: Doug Haller on Aug 30, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


Please note this description comes from a combination of climbing P1 and P2 and the work of Richard Rossiter.

P1: 10- PG-13, 180 feet. Locate discontinuous, thin finger to hand crack. Climb face and crack to pod (about 40 feet). Place small gear (0 cam/nut), and make face moves to hollow sounding and loose flakes under roof. Move left, and snuggle into wide crack/narrow chimney to place solid gear before stepping right on face above roof. Make series of face/crack moves up and left to gain ledge and next crack system.

P2: 5.7, 220 feet. Depending on the location of your belay (there are many options), move to the left side of buttress/face. Climb 20-40 feet of broken rock, awkward 5.8, to reach 200 feet of 5.4/5.6 scrambling. Follow this up and right to upper pitches of Better Than Love & Love Route. Belay as for Better Than Love at the top of P2.

P3 to P6 per Rossitter 2015:

P3: 5.8. Climb long, left-facing corner (it looks like this is the left side of the triangular dihedral Rossitter describes in Better than Love.)

P4: 5.8 R, 180 feet. Work left below roof, trend up and left, and belay beneath 2 right-facing, right-leaning corners.

P5: 5.9, 165 feet. Climb the left corner. Belay above the left end of a large roof.

P6: "romp to the top of the wall".


This is on Hallett Peak's North Face on the Second Buttress, in RMNP.

Approach: from the base of the 2nd Buttress on the North Face of Hallett Peak, work up and left (east) through a series of ledges to a broad (3 feet x 20 feet) ledge with a large tree on the west end and a right-facing dihedral on the east end. Set a belay at a tree.


A standard rack with doubles for P1 on small to medium cams.


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