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Point Five Buttress
5.8+ YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Hallett Peak
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Ad Nauseum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Better Than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Block Party T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Day Trippin' T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Finch Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Northcutt-Carter T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Owlbear T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roomates Suck T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.3033, -105.686 |
| FA: | unknown but climbed by Dougald MacDonanld and Bryan Nanista in August 2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,762 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Dougald MacDonald on Aug 3, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Closures
Details
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
On the left side of the upper headwall of First Buttress is a prominent tower that has no documented routes, though it undoubtedly has been climbed before (we found a new rappel sling around a flake on top). The tower requires a rappel to escape, dropping you at the foot of the rappels from the standard east ridge descent.
We climbed the right side of the tower's main face in three short pitches, starting in a little alcove about 40 feet left of the upper Standard Route. A short, wandering face pitch (5.7?) led to the top of a cool flake/ledge (the far left side of this flake forms the huge roof you can see from Emerald Lake). After a couple of false starts on the left, we started the second pitch from the right side of this flake; you probably could more easily reach this point from the right. A steep finger crack leads to overlaps about 15 feet above the ledge. Climb the crack and the arete/face above with good holds and decent pro to a nice ledge about 100 feet up (5.8+?). The third pitch starts on a steep gray face left of the stance and angles slightly left to finish just right of the big roof band at the top of "Point Five Buttress" (125 feet, 5.6).
Unsurprisingly, there is some moss and loose rock, but this line has very fun climbing on steep, juggy rock. It's probably more interesting and drier than the usual finishes to Great Dihedral, plus it reaches a cool summit. It's difficult to say what else has been climbed on "Point Five Buttress," though there are numerous obvious lines to try.
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