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Routes in Hallett Peak

Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Better than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Finch Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Northcutt-Carter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,236 total, 16/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Oct 1, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a great two pitch variation "In Between" the Hesse-Ferguson and the Culp-Bossier. Start with the Hesse-Ferguson for its first long pitch.

1) From the grassy ledge, step right into a white, right-facing dihedral and climb to its top below a large roof band. Turn the roof on the left side, then make a spicey traverse above the roof's lip approximately 50 feet to the right and belay around an arete in a hanging, right-facing corner. This pitch is sustained 5.8, and the traverse offers one place for protection (which used to have a #2.5 Friend fixed under a flake about midway through). The quality of the traverse is superb, but it takes a good head and some route-finding to link the correct edges and nubbins. (5.8 S, 165 feet).

2) Climb the beautiful, hanging, right-facing corner above you, with awesome stemming and fingerlocks, and take the pitch to the large terrace at mid-height on the wall. (5.9, 140 feet).

Finish with any combination of routes on the upper wall.

Protection

Standard rack. Double ropes may be useful to eliminate rope-drag on the traverse. One might also consider belaying the traverse as a separate pitch, but this is not absolutely necessary.

Photos

Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks for the comment Brian. I climbed this maybe 10 years prior to posting the route, so my memory was a little vague, especially on how well the traverse protected. I figured it was better to make it sound spicier than maybe it is (according to your comment on the protection), just for climbers who aren't as comfortable with run-outs or traverses. Nov 14, 2008
Billy Danger
Asheville, NC
Billy Danger   Asheville, NC
I did this as a variation to the Culp but reached the traverse differently. It took us two pitches to reach the pink slab. My partner belayed at top of the dihedral in an area of crappy rock. I then pulled to the right around an arete onto the slab. I thought it protected well enough...maybe a piece every 10-15 feet. The fixed cam was still there. Both this and the next dihedral pitch are rated 5.9 in Gillett's guide and felt soft to me. Aug 13, 2007