Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in Hallett Peak
|Anderson-Magill 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Better than Love T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Bold Is Love T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Center Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Collins Donn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Culp-Bossier T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Direct Second Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Englishman's Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Finch Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Great Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hesse-Ferguson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|In Between (aka Right Dihedral) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Jackin' the Johnson T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Jackson-Johnson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Kor-Van Tongeren T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Love at First Sight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Northcutt-Carter T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Point Five Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Second Buttress Tour T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Standard Route aka 1st Buttress Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Storm Riders T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Laton Kor and Butch Van Tongeren, 1962|
|Page Views:||227 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||paco on Jun 30, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionKor-Van Tongeren was on my "obscure climbs" tick list for some time and finally did it today. Neat-o. I really [couldn't] recommend this route to anyone except for the rare and elusive [Hallett] junky. Although it does have its moments.
P 1- Find a right-leaning slot 50m up and and ways to the right of the Northcutt-Carter rock scar. Work your way up to some old slings [visible] from the ground.
P2 - Choose the wide crack to the right or the roof straight above. We took the roof and found it quite enjoyable. Solid 5.8. Then continue up to a ledge and go right to the base of a groove/shallow left-facing corner.
P3 and 4 - You can link these pitches in 65m. This would be great climbing except that nearly every hold is loose. 5.8. The 5.9+ R variation to the left of these pitches looked like perfect rock and excellent but runout climbing.
P4 and 5 - Finesse your way up the chimney for two pitches bringing you to a steep headwall ending the chimney system.
P6 - Take the not so pretty crack/groove on the right in the back of the chimney and continue up 30 more feet ending on top of a small spire of sorts. 5.9.
Now, I [don't] know if Gillett or Rossitter have done this route, but the topos are a bit off here. From the belay after the chimney, one must rap 30 feet to a ledge and then start p.7 (or p.8 on the topo).
P7 - My favorite pitch on the climb. Head up easy rock to the obvious thin crack splitting a headwall. Clip a fixed nut and dare to yard on a loose chockstone to enter easier terrain. 5.9. Cool finger crack!
This climb is probably not as bad as I make it sound. It may be a better climb overall if the 5.9 R variation was taken on pitches 3 and 4.
P.S. - I found [Gillett's] topo to be more accurate than [Rossiter's].