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Jackin' the Johnson

5.11c, Trad, Sport, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.1 from 28 votes
FA: Eli Helmuth/ Shane Wilder 7/21/06
Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Hallett Peak
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This addition to the Second Buttress on Hallett combines a few old pitches with some new ones to create a striking line up this classic alpine rock face.

The 110' long second pitch is the crux as it ascends increasingly steeper, striped rock to a 5-bolt protected, pumpy section on the left side of the striking arete just 50' right of the classic Culp-Bossier. These are the only bolts on the route, not including the two originals encountered on the last pitch that is the finish of the Jackson-Johnson.

P1- 5.9 (20m) Climb the initially steep dihedral past some grassy sections then into a short offwidth corner which can be laybacked then from the first grassy ledges, traverse right to a 10' long splitter 0.75" crack which makes for a nice belay- the horn above has a sling on it as well. There is a green double sling as of 5/16/12.

P2 - 5.11 (35m) Climb straight up from the belay, past some loose rock into a wide section under a ceiling which is bypassed on the right by a quartz handrack. Follow this narrowing fissure to the end then left 10' and past a lost arrow which protects balancey moves up right onto the face and the first of 5 bolts through the crux climbing. Two 0.3 cams protect the slabby finish to the bolted anchors (60m rappel to the ground).

P3 - 5.7 (50m) Climb straight up from the anchor past a thin pin and then easier ground to intersect with the Jackson for a few feet, then continue straight up into a wide groove where the Jackson goes right.

P4 - 5.9 (40m) Steep cracks lead straight up to a big belay ledge on the big, quartzite band.

P 5- 5.10a (55m) Traverse left out of the belay on loose rock to an arching, right-facing corner. Pull the roof into the corner and follow this up then head straight out of the top of this crack where it arches right then 15m up to the start of the 61 meter ramp (This is probably P6 on the "Dark Side" route- Rossiter guide).

P6 - 5.9 (61m) Climb the right-angling "61 meter ramp" which is really cool and described as variation 13d in the Rossiter guide.

P7 - 5.9+ (60m) Climb a steep quartz crack out of the ramp end then back left into an obvious right-facing dihedral which is the Jackson-Johnson finish with two ancient bolts.

P8 - 5.7 (15m) A short and somewhat loose pitch takes you to the top.

Location

This route starts just right of the Culp-Bossier, in the second small dihedral to the right (about 50') of the CB start, which is the same as for the Love, Englishman's, and Jackson-Johnson routes, also. The second pitch climbs on the east aspect of an obvious and striking prow with the belay ledge right on top of the prow. The direct start to the JJ starts in the major dihedral system 100' to the west of this prow. Recommended descent is down the east ridge to the rappels. No fixed anchors other than the 2nd pitch are available, so retreat could be a costly endeavor.

Protection

A standard rack to #3 Camalot, doubles of all sizes down to a 0.25 Camalot and extra shoulder length and double-shoulder-length slings are helpful. Five bolts and two pins protect the crux second pitch which ends at a nice ledge on a prow- this is the only pitch with new fixed hardware other than one pin on the start of the third pitch.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo of the second buttress on the north face of Hallett Peak, RMNP.
[Hide Photo] Topo of the second buttress on the north face of Hallett Peak, RMNP.
Daniel starting up the corner on pitch 5.
[Hide Photo] Daniel starting up the corner on pitch 5.
One of the original bolts from the Jackson-Johnson.  Notice the hanger is a lost arrow piton cut in half with a hole drilled through for the bolt.
[Hide Photo] One of the original bolts from the Jackson-Johnson. Notice the hanger is a lost arrow piton cut in half with a hole drilled through for the bolt.
Heading into the business on P2.
[Hide Photo] Heading into the business on P2.
Near the end of the 61 meter ramp.
[Hide Photo] Near the end of the 61 meter ramp.
The crux pitch on the Jackson Johnson in evening light.
[Hide Photo] The crux pitch on the Jackson Johnson in evening light.
The quartz cracks of pitch four with the right-facing, 10a corner of P5 looming above on the left.
[Hide Photo] The quartz cracks of pitch four with the right-facing, 10a corner of P5 looming above on the left.
Shane pulling the final bulge onto the slab of the 2nd pitch.
[Hide Photo] Shane pulling the final bulge onto the slab of the 2nd pitch.
On the crux second pitch - long runners below the roof and through it make the rope-drag on this pitch reasonable.
[Hide Photo] On the crux second pitch - long runners below the roof and through it make the rope-drag on this pitch reasonable.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kirill Kireyev
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] We could not find this route for the life of us. Any beta would be appreciated. Jul 23, 2008
J F
Co
  5.11
[Hide Comment] There is only one fixed pin on the 2nd pitch now. Aug 2, 2008
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] First hold at first bolt broke a little. Doesn't change the grade though. Didn't find the two 0.3 Camalot placements after bolt 5. A 0.4 Camalot placement worked really well though. Really cool route, route finding wasn't too bad. Jul 13, 2015
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Four star second pitch but only two stars on the rest of the route, so three stars overall. Great second pitch! Jul 30, 2015
[Hide Comment] Any beta for a good rack to take? Jul 24, 2017
garrett K
salt lake city
 
[Hide Comment] Got off route from the Culp and followed a dirty dihedral up to the belay before P5 of this route. Followed this the rest of the way up. Can't speak for the first 4 pitches of it, but the rest is awesome, great exposure.

Beta: DO NOT go up from an awesome, recessed belay ledge (we called it lunch ledge) halfway through the "61m ramp," keep going right. We fortunately did not go up from there, but we saw rap slings a little ways up from people going up here and having to come back down. From there, the route was pretty obvious.

The rack we brought was a beefy set of nuts, BD c4s 0.3-3 with doubles of 0.3, 0.75, 1, and 2. Some smaller cams would have been nice, and a heavier rack would have helped us shorten the climb into the 8 pitches (we did it in more like 11). Aug 20, 2017
Vaughn
Colorado
  5.11c PG13
[Hide Comment] On the long P6 ramp, don't stop at the first nice large dirt/grass belay ledge. It looks like the right spot and has a similar quartz crack leading away, but you aren't there. Keep going until the ramp comes to an end.

Most of the pitches felt pretty soft for their grade except the 11+ P2 and the 9+ P7. Sep 24, 2018
Mitch Musci
Estes Park, CO
[Hide Comment] I pounded that third bolt back in and snugged up all 5 bolts. Everything is now looking tip top on this stellar crux pitch. I recommend extending the pin with a 48" runner to prevent otherwise heinous rope drag. The webbing around the block at the first belay is still missing, so either bring 2 60m ropes to rap to the ground from the bolted anchor atop the crux pitch, or a mandatory 70m rope to reach the block from the bolted anchors and additional webbing to rap from here to the ground.

On a side note, anyone have any details on the direct start for P1? Looks like there are a couple fixed wires and a pin protecting a thin crack that heads out right of the OW. Aug 4, 2019
J Thomson
Boulder
[Hide Comment] Rack beta: a single set of cams from #0 Z4 through a #3, plus an extra piece in the 0.5 size, and a few medium size stoppers. A double set to a #3 as the guidebook recommends is unnecessary. This is a good route with a stellar crux pitch - get on it! Aug 22, 2020