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Areas in San Juans

Dallas Peak 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Engineer Pass 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Gilpin Peak 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Grand Turk 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Grenadiers, The 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 15 / 15
Mount Sneffels 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Needles, The 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 11
Peak 17 "Little Finger" 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Turret Ridge 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Twin Peaks 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilderness 2 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Elevation: 12,998 ft
GPS: 37.657, -107.602 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 128,509 total · 1,611/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Mar 5, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

It is hard to find, at least for many of us here in the Four Corners, such a concentration of mountaineering splendor as in the San Juans. This range is comprised of the Needles and Grenadiers and these two areas form the core of true backcountry mountaineering; the other sub-ranges are the North San Juans and the West Needles. The Grenadiers, a row of proud sentinels, are also known as the Quartzite Peaks, while the Needles are a haphazard mix of peaks and passes, culminating in the Sunlight-Windom massif.

Getting There

The easiest and quickest way to get into the heart of these peaks is to take the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge railroad from either Silverton or Durango to Elk Park or Needleton. Alternately, and depending on which areas one intends to visit, one could approach from Beartown, American Basin, Andrews Lake, Molas Switchbacks, Vallecito, Purgatory Flats, etc.

48 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at San Juans

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Steep Snow
 24
Snake (Dogleg) Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 6
Naked Lady Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 28
Southwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 15
West Buttress
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 5
North Face of West Trinity Peak
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 15
Normal Route
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 18
East Face/Dallas Peak
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
 97
Wham Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 7
Southwest Chimney
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
North Buttress
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 26
Center Shift on Wham Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Arrow Spire
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
 4
West Gully
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Standard Route, Sunlight Spire
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snake (Dogleg) Couloir Mount Sneffels
 24
Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Naked Lady Couloir Needles > W Needle Mtns > Snowdon Peak
 6
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Southwest Ridge Mount Sneffels
 28
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
West Buttress Needles > W Needle Mtns > Snowdon Peak
 15
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
North Face of West Trinity… Grenadiers > W Trinity Peak
 5
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Normal Route Needles > Jagged Mtn
 15
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
East Face/Dallas Peak Dallas Peak
 18
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, Alpine
Wham Ridge Grenadiers > Vestal Peak
 97
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Southwest Chimney Uncompahgre/Big… > Coxcomb Peak
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
North Buttress Mount Sneffels
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Grenadiers > Arrow Peak
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Center Shift on Wham Ridge Grenadiers > Vestal Peak
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Arrow Spire Grenadiers > Arrow Peak
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
West Gully Turret Ridge
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Standard Route, Sunlight Spire Needles > Sunlight Spire
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in San Juans »

Weather Averages

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Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
The Guardian, Animas Mtn., The Index, Jagged, Knifepoint, Sneffels, the numbered peaks, Pigeon, Storm King, Silex, Vestal, West Needles, The Trinities, Sunlight, Windom, etc. all belong here, some with some sub-groups...This area also includes other subranges, not yet mentioned here on MP, like the San Miguels AKA Silverton West, as well as the areas around west of Lake City and the Rio Grande Pyramid. Mar 5, 2012
Nic Harnish
Durango, CO
Nic Harnish   Durango, CO
These mountains certainly deserve their own page. Mar 7, 2012
eggman
Durango, co
eggman   Durango, co
I think we need a little organization here. I've noticed a lot of misinformation and scrabbly writing on these San Juan pages, especially for the grenadiers/needles. The Mount Silex page should be re-done. Jul 19, 2012

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