Elevation: 12,998 ft
GPS: 37.657, -107.602 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 206,840 total · 2,062/month
Shared By: Matthias Holladay on Mar 5, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

It is hard to find, at least for many of us here in the Four Corners, such a concentration of mountaineering splendor as in the San Juans. This range is comprised of the Needles and Grenadiers and these two areas form the core of true backcountry mountaineering; the other sub-ranges are the North San Juans and the West Needles. The Grenadiers, a row of proud sentinels, are also known as the Quartzite Peaks, while the Needles are a haphazard mix of peaks and passes, culminating in the Sunlight-Windom massif.

Getting There

The easiest and quickest way to get into the heart of these peaks is to take the Durango-Silverton Narrow Gauge railroad from either Silverton or Durango to Elk Park or Needleton. Alternately, and depending on which areas one intends to visit, one could approach from Beartown, American Basin, Andrews Lake, Molas Switchbacks, Vallecito, Purgatory Flats, etc.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at San Juans

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Steep Snow
 25
Snake (Dogleg) Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
Mod. Snow
 7
Naked Lady Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 34
Southwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 15
West Buttress
Trad, Alpine
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 17
Normal Route
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 18
East Face/Dallas Peak
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
 112
Wham Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
 3
NNE Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 35
Center Shift on Wham Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Southwest Chimney
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
North Buttress
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 38
Southwest Chimney
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Arrow Spire
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Standard Route, Sunlight Spire
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Snake (Dogleg) Couloir Mt Sneffels
 25
Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Naked Lady Couloir Needles > W Needle Mountains > Snowdon Peak
 7
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Southwest Ridge Mt Sneffels
 34
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
West Buttress Needles > W Needle Mountains > Snowdon Peak
 15
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Normal Route Needles > Jagged Mountain
 17
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
East Face/Dallas Peak Dallas Peak
 18
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, Alpine
Wham Ridge Grenadiers > Vestal Peak
 112
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
NNE Ridge Northern San Juans > Wilson Peak
 3
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R Trad, Alpine
Center Shift on Wham Ridge Grenadiers > Vestal Peak
 35
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Southwest Chimney Uncompahgre/Big… > Coxcomb Peak
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
North Buttress Mt Sneffels
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Grenadiers > Arrow Peak
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 10 pitches
Southwest Chimney Northern San Juans > Lizard Head
 38
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Arrow Spire Grenadiers > Arrow Peak
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Standard Route, Sunlight Spire Needles > Sunlight Spire
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in San Juans »

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