Avg: 2.6 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, Grade III|
|Page Views:||4,941 total · 69/month|
|Shared By:||Vic Zeilman on Mar 12, 2012|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe North Buttress is a fun and worthwhile alpine route up one of the more aesthetic peaks in the San Juans. Midsummer would be the ideal time to climb the route, since the rock should be dry and snow free and the snowfield at the base of the buttress will have receded somewhat. Spring and fall could provide a more full-on alpine experience with the potential for ice and mixed climbing on the route.
Once you're at the base of the buttress, climb 5.6 rock until you're basically following a ridge (4th and low 5th) up the path of least resistance. Continue climbing the ridge until you gain a notch below the summit (the top of the Snake Couloir). From here, it is the same finishing pitch (5.6 or so) to the summit.
Descend the main trail to Lavender Col and drop down the scree field below Kismet and back to Blaine Basin.