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Routes in The Automator Boulder

Automator, The V13 8B
Tommy's Arete V7 7A+
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Type: Boulder, Alpine
FA: Tommy Caldwell
Page Views: 9,567 total · 83/month
Shared By: Monty on Mar 29, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Fragile Alpine Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the amazing arete on the right side of the boulder can't miss it.

Sit start low and go right hand to a small crimp, from there follow good holds to a shelf, then bust out the crux and top 'er. Watch out for the rock behind you.

Location

This is on the right side of the Automator Block.

Protection

Lots of pads.
tcamillieri
Denver
tcamillieri   Denver
Did a variation of this problem today that eliminates all use of the arete, via using some of the holds on Automator and stemming in the shallow dihedral. It's called Tom's Arete. Sep 12, 2009
David McAllister
Denver, CO
David McAllister   Denver, CO
Although soft for V7, this is one of the most amazing climbs I've ever been on...in the world. Incredible, in a word. Jul 25, 2010
There's a fun variation on this climb starting on Tommy's, then at the huge rubber covered ledge it moves out right to nice crimps and a big lock off to the top. V5? Sep 21, 2013
Cesar Valencia  
  V7
Old video of me doing Tommy's Arete, V7 and Mikala, V7:

youtube.com/watch?v=BQHfEwn… Nov 18, 2017
Morgan Pearson
Ames, IA
 
Morgan Pearson   Ames, IA
 
Really amazing problem, must do! Please be careful to practice Leave No Trace, as every time I've been to this boulder, there's been a plethora of bar wrappers, tape trash, and tick marks. Jul 19, 2018

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