Elevation: 12,462 ft
GPS: 40.05, -105.64 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 314,305 total · 1,687/month
Shared By: John McNamee on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Introduction

Located in the Arapaho and the Roosevelt National Forests in Colorado, the Indian Peaks Wilderness area was added to the National Wilderness Preservation System by Congress in 1978. The name was selected because many of the peaks within the wilderness are named for Native American tribes of the west. This wilderness area covers nearly 75,000 acres, following the Continental Divide south for nearly 16 miles, with the Rocky Mountain National Park as its northern border.

Indian Peaks contains vast areas of alpine tundra, numerous cirque basins with remnant glaciers, and nearly 50 lakes. Streams in the wilderness include Middle and South St. Vrain, Boulder, Buchanan, Cascade, and Arapaho Creeks. Elevations range from 8,400 to over 13,000 feet. The underlying rock of the Indian Peaks area is 80-90% Precambrian biotite gneiss formed approximately 1800 million years ago. The area has since been reshaped by at least six glacial sequences dating back 15,000 years.

Within Indian Peaks lie N Arapahoe Peak (13,502 ft), Apache Peak (13,438 ft.), Navajo Peak (13,405 ft*.), S. Arapahoe Peak (13,397), Ogalalla Peak (13,333 ft.), Mt. Audubon (13,233 ft.), Parry Peak (13,391 ft.), James Peak (13,294 ft.), Arikaree Peak (13,146 ft.), Paiute Peak (13,083 ft.), Mt. Toll (12,979 ft.), Shoshoni Peak (12,962 ft.), "Ooh La La!" (12,945 ft.), Pawnee Peak (12,939 ft.), Jasper Peak (12,923 ft.), Elk Tooth (12,848 ft.), Mt. Neva (12,814 ft.,), Haimovi Tower (12,220 ft.), Lone Eagle Peak (11,940 ft.), and Niwot Ridge. There are four trail passes: Devil's Thumb (11,747 ft.), Arapahoe (11,906 ft.), Pawnee (12,541 ft.), and Buchanan (11,837 ft.).

Be prepared for changing weather, wind, and watch for sudden onset of thunderstorms and lightning.

Note, some areas within the Indian Peaks Wilderness area are closed to the public and trespassing can result in hefty fines.

Getting There

Please refer to the individual mountain and route descriptions as different trailheads are often used.

Resources

If you plan to stay overnight, a permit from the U.S. Forest Service is required between June 1 and September 15. Camping regulations will be given to you when you apply.

Permits may be obtained from the USFS District Office at 2995 Baseline Road, Boulder, Colorado 80303 (111 6600), or at the Sulphur Ranger District, US Forest Service, 62429 US Highway 40, Granby, CO 80446."Last Chance" permits are available at Coast to Coast Hardware in Nederland, Colorado.

81 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Peaks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Easy Snow
 8
South Face
Snow, Alpine
 18
Shooting Star
Trad, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
 46
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 33
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 28
Solo Flight
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 3
Audubon-Arapaho Traverse
Trad, Alpine
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
 4
Continental Divide Tour
Trad, Alpine
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 10
Mohling Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Steep Snow
 12
Superstar Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 15
Devil's Spiral
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 36
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 18
Bishop's Scepter
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 91
North Face
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 20
Kasparov Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
The Rook
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
South Face Mt Toll
 8
Easy Snow Snow, Alpine
Shooting Star James Peak
 18
Trad, Alpine
South Ridge Arapahoe Peaks
 46
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Mt Neva
 33
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Solo Flight Lone Eagle Peak
 28
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Audubon-Arapaho Traverse Indian Peaks Traverses
 3
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Continental Divide Tour Indian Peaks Traverses
 4
Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c Trad, Alpine
Mohling Traverse Lone Eagle Peak
 10
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, Alpine
Superstar Couloir James Peak
 12
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Devil's Spiral Devil's Thumb
 15
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Mt Toll
 36
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Bishop's Scepter Apache Peak
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
North Face Lone Eagle Peak
 91
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Kasparov Traverse Apache Peak
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Alpine
The Rook Apache Peak
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
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