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Areas in Indian Peaks

"Ooh La La!" 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Apache Peak 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11 / 11
Arapahoe Peaks 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Devil's Moles 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Devil's Thumb 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Elk Tooth 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Haimovi Tower 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
James Peak 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Jasper Peak 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 3 / 3
Lone Eagle Peak 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Mount Neva 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Mount Toll 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Mt. Audubon 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Navajo Peak 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Ogalalla Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Paiute Peak 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Peak 12,878 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
Roaring Fork Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Sawtooth Mountain 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Shoshoni Peak 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4 / 4
Stone Lake Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Introduction

Located in the Arapaho and the Roosevelt National Forests in Colorado, the Indian Peaks Wilderness area was added to the National Wilderness Preservation System by Congress in 1978. The name was selected because many of the peaks within the wilderness are named for Native American tribes of the west. This wilderness area covers nearly 75,000 acres, following the Continental Divide south for nearly 16 miles, with the Rocky Mountain National Park as its northern border.

Indian Peaks contains vast areas of alpine tundra, numerous cirque basins with remnant glaciers, and nearly 50 lakes. Streams in the wilderness include Middle and South St. Vrain, Boulder, Buchanan, Cascade, and Arapaho Creeks. Elevations range from 8,400 to over 13,000 feet. The underlying rock of the Indian Peaks area is 80-90% Precambrian biotite gneiss formed approximately 1800 million years ago. The area has since been reshaped by at least six glacial sequences dating back 15,000 years.

Within Indian Peaks lie N Arapahoe Peak (13,502 ft), Apache Peak (13,438 ft.), Navajo Peak (13,405 ft*.), S. Arapahoe Peak (13,397), Ogalalla Peak (13,333 ft.), Mt. Audubon (13,233 ft.), Parry Peak (13,391 ft.), James Peak (13,294 ft.), Arikaree Peak (13,146 ft.), Paiute Peak (13,083 ft.), Mt. Toll (12,979 ft.), Shoshoni Peak (12,962 ft.), "Ooh La La!" (12,945 ft.), Pawnee Peak (12,939 ft.), Jasper Peak (12,923 ft.), Elk Tooth (12,848 ft.), Mt. Neva (12,814 ft.,), Haimovi Tower (12,220 ft.), Lone Eagle Peak (11,940 ft.), and Niwot Ridge. There are four trail passes: Devil's Thumb (11,747 ft.), Arapahoe (11,906 ft.), Pawnee (12,541 ft.), and Buchanan (11,837 ft.).

Be prepared for changing weather, wind, and watch for sudden onset of thunderstorms and lightning.

Note, some areas within the Indian Peaks Wilderness area are closed to the public and trespassing can result in hefty fines.

Getting There

Please refer to the individual mountain and route descriptions as different trailheads are often used.

Resources

If you plan to stay overnight, a permit from the U.S. Forest Service is required between June 1 and September 15. Camping regulations will be given to you when you apply.

Permits may be obtained from the USFS District Office at 2995 Baseline Road, Boulder, Colorado 80303 (111 6600), or at the Sulphur Ranger District, US Forest Service, 62429 US Highway 40, Granby, CO 80446."Last Chance" permits are available at Coast to Coast Hardware in Nederland, Colorado.

65 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Indian Peaks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
 17
Shooting Star
Trad, Alpine
 31
South Ridge
Trad, Alpine
 22
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine
R
 16
Kasparov Traverse
Trad, Alpine
Easy Snow
 6
South Face
Snow, Alpine
Steep Snow
 11
Queen's Way
Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 20
Solo Flight
Trad, Alpine
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 8
Mohling Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 13
Superstar Couloir
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 12
Devil's Spiral
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 26
North Ridge
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Bishop's Scepter
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 63
North Face
Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
Southeast Buttress
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
The Rook
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shooting Star James Peak
 17
Trad, Alpine
South Ridge Arapahoe Peaks
 31
Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Mount Neva
 22
Trad, Alpine
Kasparov Traverse Apache Peak
 16
R Trad, Alpine
South Face Mount Toll
 6
Easy Snow Snow, Alpine
Queen's Way Apache Peak
 11
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
Solo Flight Lone Eagle Peak
 20
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad, Alpine
Mohling Traverse Lone Eagle Peak
 8
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, Alpine
Superstar Couloir James Peak
 13
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Devil's Spiral Devil's Thumb
 12
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
North Ridge Mount Toll
 26
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Bishop's Scepter Apache Peak
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
North Face Lone Eagle Peak
 63
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 11 pitches
Southeast Buttress Haimovi Tower
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
The Rook Apache Peak
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Indian Peaks »

Weather Averages

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Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
Can anybody fill me in if you have to pay if you do any of these routes car-to-car, like getting there before a certain time in the morning like the park and Mt. Evans? Aug 18, 2006
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
You do have to pay to park/enter at the Brainerd Lake Trailheads (i.e. Long Lake, Blue/Mitchell Lakes, (em>etc.). They do check your parked vehicles, too. Aug 20, 2006
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
However most other access points are free. Camping cost the price of a permit. Jul 13, 2007

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