Elevation: 13,441 ft
GPS: 40.058, -105.651 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,695 total · 249/month
Shared By: Mark Oveson on Sep 1, 2005 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Apache Peak lives on the Continental Divide at the head of a high basin west of Brainard Lake. At 13,441', Apache Peak is the highest peak in the Brainard Lake area and the second highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Apache's west slopes form a significant portion of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Divide. Apache Peak connects to Navajo Peak by a 3/4 mile-long southeast ridge commonly traversed by climbers heading for Dicker's Peck (described as a climb on Navajo Peak). From time to time Apache is reached from Lone Eagle Peak by the remote and challenging Mohling Traverse (see Lone Eagle Peak for a description). The sweeping north ridge of Apache connects with Shoshoni Peak and is graced by several towers known as the Chessmen. Travelling the mile-long ridge from Shoshoni to Apache and climbing the Chessmen in the process is called the Kasparov Traverse.

Apache is also home to wonderful snow climbs, including the classic Queen's Way, the short but sweet Apache Couloir, and remote Fair Glacier.

Getting There

Approach most routes from the East by hiking from Brainard Lake into the high basin between Navajo Peak and Shoshoni Peak. The Kasparov Traverse and the Chessmen are approached from Pawnee Pass. Fair Glacier can be reached from Monarch Lake on the west or from Pawnee Pass via the Crater Lake Trail.

13 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Apache Peak Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Apache Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
 10
White Knight
Trad, Alpine
 9
The King
Trad, Alpine
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 12
The Queen
Trad, Alpine
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 11
The Bishop
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
Bishop's Scepter
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 21
Kasparov Traverse
Trad, Alpine
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
The Rook
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Knight
 10
Trad, Alpine
The King
 9
Trad, Alpine
The Queen
 12
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad, Alpine
The Bishop
 11
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Bishop's Scepter
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Kasparov Traverse
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Alpine
The Rook
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Apache Peak »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos