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Routes in Apache Peak

Bishop's Scepter T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bishop, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Black Knight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Kasparov Traverse T R
King's Pawn T
King, The T
Queen's Way Steep Snow
Queen, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Rook's Pawn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rook, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Knight T
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Description

Apache Peak lives on the Continental Divide at the head of a high basin west of Brainard Lake. At 13,441', Apache Peak is the highest peak in the Brainard Lake area and the second highest in the Indian Peaks Wilderness. Apache's west slopes form a significant portion of the Lone Eagle Cirque west of the Divide. Apache Peak connects to Navajo Peak by a 3/4 mile-long southeast ridge commonly traversed by climbers heading for Dicker's Peck (described as a climb on Navajo Peak). From time to time Apache is reached from Lone Eagle Peak by the remote and challenging Mohling Traverse (see Lone Eagle Peak for a description). The sweeping north ridge of Apache connects with Shoshoni Peak and is graced by several towers known as the Chessmen. Travelling the mile-long ridge from Shoshoni to Apache and climbing the Chessmen in the process is called the Kasparov Traverse.

Apache is also home to wonderful snow climbs, including the classic Queen's Way, the short but sweet Apache Couloir, and remote Fair Glacier.

Getting There

Approach most routes from the East by hiking from Brainard Lake into the high basin between Navajo Peak and Shoshoni Peak. The Kasparov Traverse and the Chessmen are approached from Pawnee Pass. Fair Glacier can be reached from Monarch Lake on the west or from Pawnee Pass via the Crater Lake Trail.

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Apache Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
 6
King's Pawn
Trad, Alpine
 5
The King
Trad, Alpine
R
 14
Kasparov Traverse
Trad, Alpine
Steep Snow
 9
Queen's Way
Snow, Alpine
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
 6
The Queen
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Bishop's Scepter
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 3
Rook's Pawn
Trad, Alpine
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
The Rook
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
King's Pawn
 6
Trad, Alpine
The King
 5
Trad, Alpine
Kasparov Traverse
 14
R Trad, Alpine
Queen's Way
 9
Steep Snow Snow, Alpine
The Queen
 6
5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c Trad, Alpine
Bishop's Scepter
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Rook's Pawn
 3
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
The Rook
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Apache Peak »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D

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