Avg: 3.7 from 16 votes
Routes in Apache Peak
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft|
|FA:||Bill Wright and Mark Oveson|
|Page Views:||12,247 total, 82/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Oveson on Aug 25, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe ridge between Shoshoni Peak and Apache Peak is one of the best ridge traverses in the Indian Peaks. The rock is solid, the ridge provides plenty of scrambling and routefinding challenges, and the setting is superb. Best of all, the ridge is dotted with tower formations that beg to be climbed. Gerry Roach refers to these towers as the Chessmen, but in his guidebook he says he knows of no recorded climbs on them. The Chessmen have dwelt in obscurity for years.
For better or worse, the Chessmen are now known and climbed. The Kasparov Traverse is a journey from Shoshoni Peak to Apache Peak along this scenic ridge, climbing all of the Chessmen on the way.
The towers are climbed in this order (see overview picture): White Knight, Knight's Pawn, The Queen, The Bishop, Black Knight, Bishop's Scepter, The Rook, King's Pawn, The King, and Apache Peak itself. See descriptions for each of these individual climbs for details.
From the summit area on Shoshoni, descend on talus toward the towers until you reach a notch that marks the start of the ridge proper. Stay east of the White Knight and climb the White Knight and Knight's Pawn (4th class). Descend off the tower and proceed south to the Queen. Stay east of the Queen and climb its east face (5.0-5.2). Descend and continue south and down to the low point of the ridge, staying mainly on ledges on the east side of the ridge.
Climb the north ridge of the Bishop (5.4-5.5), descend past the Bishop's Scepter, and climb the Black Knight (5.5s). Return and climb the Bishop's Scepter (5.6). Scramble up to the south of the Rook, traverse north on a narrow ledge, and climb the Rook's east face (5.10+?).
Start the long march up to the King's Pawn, staying near the ridge crest. Climb the summit block of the King's Pawn on the east or west side (4th class). Descend to the north until it is reasonable to climb down to ledges that allow you to proceed south. Climb the huge buttress of The King. It is imposing but much easier than it looks (3rd class). The King is threatening but has no real power--you can walk off the other side. Pass a last notch and finish the climb with a nice scramble to the summit of Apache.