Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||6,593 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Oveson on Aug 25, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
From a position south of the Rook, traverse north along a narrow ledge, staying on the east side of the main ridge. This ledge leads to a comfortable belay just below a notch between the Rook and a much smaller finger of rock that might as well be called the Rook's Pawn.
From the belay, traverse south to a thick, detached flake and traverse right to get on top of the flake, which forms a ledge. Follow a prominent hand crack as it curves up and left, pull throught the roof on the left near a piton, traverse above the roof to the right and reach the summit and a two-piton anchor. These pitons were rusty but in reasonably good shape in August 2005.
Bill Wright climbed all the moves free with some resting on pieces, and he estimates the route would go free at 5.10+ or 5.11-.