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Routes in Apache Peak

Bishop's Scepter T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bishop, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Black Knight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Kasparov Traverse T R
King's Pawn T
King, The T
Queen's Way Steep Snow
Queen, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Rook's Pawn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rook, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Knight T
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 150 ft
FA: Not known
Page Views: 2,045 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark Oveson on Aug 25, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Description [Suggest Change]

This rock is the second major Chessman (from north to south) on the Kasparov Traverse, after the White Knight/Knight's Pawn formation. Stay east of the tower on ledges, then climb a well-featured wall and crack system on the east face of the tower. Exact route is a matter of choice, but it is possible to climb the route at the F4 (5.0-5.2) rating with some routefinding. The summit of this tower is regal and the views divine, particularly to the south.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Light rack if necessary


Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
8-31-08: these were wonderful features to scramble and climb. Brian Verhulst made a new route (variation) by climbing a 5.10 finger/hand crack on the far right side of the Queen. Sep 3, 2008

More About The Queen