Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Bill Wright and Mark Oveson, D. MacDonald & K. Kovaly?, 1995.
Page Views: 16,586 total · 86/month
Shared By: Mark Oveson on Aug 25, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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The Bishop's Scepter is a stunning, narrow spire just west of and downhill from the Bishop. It looks much harder than it turns out to be. In fact, the climbing is clean, fun, reasonbly well protected, and only 5.6 in difficulty. The top of the spire is so narrow that a regular 2-foot diameter sling will easily go around it.

From a comfortable belay east of the spire, make a few moves to engage its east face. Move up and right to a subsidiary thumb that you can stand on to place some gear. From here, traverse left under a steep wall to a comfortable stance and engage the crux, which consists of one or two 5.6 moves over a bulge and onto a slab. Reach out and touch the summit--and stand on it if you dare!

The first ascent party rappelled from a sling. Downclimbing off the route could leave the summit clean. An nice addition would be a well-placed pair of bolts or pitons near the summit.

This is a classic and stunning tower well within the ability of mere mortal climbers.


Cams and stoppers, sewn sling for the rappel.