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Routes in Apache Peak

Bishop's Scepter T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bishop, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Black Knight T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R
Kasparov Traverse T R
King's Pawn T
King, The T
Queen's Way
Queen, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Rook's Pawn T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rook, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
White Knight T
Type: Trad, Alpine, 80 ft
FA: Bill Wright and Mark Oveson
Page Views: 1,999 total, 13/month
Shared By: Mark Oveson on Aug 25, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This tower is distinctive in its hunchbacked profile as seen from Isabelle Glacier. The third major tower on the north-south Kasparov Traverse from Shoshoni to Apache, the Bishop provides a short climb on very clean and solid rock.

Start on the east side of the tower and make a few bouldery 5th-class moves to gain the north ridge. Tiptoe up the slabby ridge to the summit. This is a short but enjoyable tour with plenty of exposure to complete the alpine feel.

Protection

A light rack.

Photos

D Sharp
Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
D Sharp   Boulder, CO
  Easy 5th
The Bishop is a fun tower to climb on the traverse, both my partner and I soloed it without much trouble, and we aren't the dare-devil type.

Just in case someone is confused about the topo - as I was: the picture is taken from the W side of the tower (the "back side"), with the dots indicating the route being hidden by the rock on the E side.

Also, while most of the traverse could arguably be called clean and solid (for Alpine), the Bishop was remarkably loose at the top. Didn't seem like there were any safe rappel options from the summit. (With that said, we removed some tat wedged under a heavy albeit loose flake at the base of the flake). Downclimbing is probably the way to go. Aug 5, 2013