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Routes in Lone Eagle Peak

East Face Center T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mohling Traverse T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleep-In Block T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo Flight T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Sound of Music (North Face Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Lone Eagle Peak, though a mere 11,900 feet high, is one of the most remote and beautiful granite peaks in Colorado. It sits just west of the Continental Divide in the Indian Peaks near Pawnee Pass and is host to a classic Stettner route, the 5.7 north face, a must-do for the grade.

The Lone Eagle Cirque can be approached from the east over Pawnee Pass or from the west starting at the Monarch Lake trailhead. No matter which way you go it's a long hump. There is plenty of potential for new (trad) routes and bouldering in the Crater Lake/Triangle Lake area. This area is quite pristine. Do your best to keep it that way!

Getting There

From the east: access the Brainard Lake Recreation Area via the Peak-to-Peak Highway (northwest of Denver and north of Nederland). Drive west past Brainard Lake to the Long Lake trailhead and follow the Pawnee Pass trail 4-5 miles to the pass at 12,500 feet on the Continental Divide. Descend the west side of Pawnee Pass (very steep), passing Pawnee Lake en route to a junction with the Crater Lake Trail 3 miles below the pass. Hike a gentle uphill mile south to Crater Lake (camping permit required -- you can get these at the National Forest Service office in Boulder). Lone Eagle Peak is the towering pinnacle just south of and above the lake.

From the west: per Kaner: take US 34 north out of Granby. Exit to the east on Arapaho Bay Road. Skirt the southern side of Grand Lake; the road turns into solid gravel, smooth and well-kept, no 2WD worries.

Pass Arapaho Bay and continue towards Monarch Lake Trailhead. Park and start hiking east on Cascade Creek Trail. Follow signs towards Crater Lake, Lone Eagle dominates.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lone Eagle Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just finished climbing the North Face Route this last weekend. The beta we had going into it was a jumble of multiple sources, and route finding was interesting with all the variations. See my blog post for a more detailed description.

www.leftanglebeta.com

Let me know what you think. Jul 28, 2016
Jerimiah Gentry
Denver, CO
Jerimiah Gentry   Denver, CO
Does anyone have any information on Winter access? Not for the purpose of climbing but just to explore and enjoy the solidude? I appreciate that it would be a huge hike / skin. Mar 2, 2014
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Klimbien, there are 2 ways to access this Peak. One is from the West - as per Kaner. The other is from the East as per the original directions. It depends on how much you want to walk vs. how much you want to drive. Jun 1, 2013
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Kaner - thank you for the how to get there directions - I can't begin to explain how frustrated I have been with this and many of the Gov. websites... so many people assume you're local. Some of these directions really need to start by mentioning a couple of the surrounding cities to help get one in the right vicinity of the state. 14ers.com is the worst at this.... Thanks again! Much appreciated.

P.S. the Gov. website gave this info - from Colorado Highway 72 at Ward, turn west onto the Brainard Lake Road. Travel 2.5 miles to the Brainard Gateway Trailhead, and continue another two miles to Brainard Lake. The entrance station is open seasonally. Jun 1, 2013
Simon
Colorado Springs
Simon   Colorado Springs
Google map link

Decimal co-ordinates 40.071392,-105.660682.
GPS co-ordinates N 40 04.284, W 105 39.641.
Degs, mins & secs N40 04 17, W105 39 38. Feb 16, 2011
Kaner
Eagle
Kaner   Eagle
Getting There #2
Take US 34 north out of Granby. Exit to the east on Arapaho Bay Road. Skirt the southern side of Grand Lake; the road turns into solid gravel, smooth and well-kept, no 2WD worries.

Pass Arapaho Bay and continue towards Monarch Lake Trailhead. Park and start hiking east on Cascade Creek Trail. Follow signs towards Crater Lake, Lone Eagle dominates. Oct 19, 2008
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Bring your bug spray!!! The mosquitos are AWFUL this year. Jul 26, 2004

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